Central heating pump

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My central heating pump needs replacing, and I have bought a new one. Please can someone tell me if it is just a case of taking off the old one and putting on the new, or is it not quite that straight forward? :D
 
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moohax said:
My central heating pump needs replacing, and I have bought a new one. Please can someone tell me if it is just a case of taking off the old one and putting on the new, or is it not quite that straight forward? :D

Am I to take it that this is an open vented system & not a combi boiler?

Isolate all electrics to pump. Close down cold mains to F&e tank in loft, drain system to a point where there is no water remaining on the flow pipework to pump & just below.( you can check this by cracking the pump valve below the pump & observing wether or not any water floods out). Close down pump valves at top & bottom of pump. Remove existing pump & replace fitting new washers. Hope that old pump valves are compatible with new pump & don`t leak as soon as you refill system ( they`ll probably leak ). Repeat steps above & replace valves as well as pump. Re-wire pump. Refill system. Check ballcock in F&E tank in loft. Check downstairs rads are full. Check upstairs rads are full. If nothing comes out of rads (neither air nor water) you have a blocked cold feed.If all rads full, bleed pump,( loosen big silver nut until water dribbles out). Re-tighten silvery nut. Look for manual air vent at highest point in your system ( it may be automatic ) if manual get a pair of pump pliers & grip top of vent & turn until air is expelled & water gurgles out. Hope that this does not snap & you flood your house. Once all above has been accomplished you may fire up your boiler after checking the pump speed on your new pump is set to match the one that you have just replaced........pretty straightforward....
 
Not forgetting to re-open valves above & below pump once installed...
 
If you close down both pump valves & only need to replace the pump..ignore most above..fit pump & bleed... :D
 
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Most pump valves will leak if you close them and lots of them will require cutting off.....best bet if you can is to drain down to below the pump and swap the head over if the condition of the rest is ok.
 
And...

If open vented, then before you drain the system check the contents of the F&E cistern. If it contains solid debris then mop this out (or use a wet vac if you have one) before draining - this will reduce the odds of getting stuck rad valves and a clogged heat exchanger later on.

Also, when refilling, add a chemical inhibitor to the system - this applies whether the system is open vented or closed; in the latter case you can buy a tube of gel that you inject rather than a bottle of liquid that you pour.

If you're not confident about getting all joints leak-proof, then fill with clean water first, so you can test, and then do a partial drain to create room for the inhibitor.

As a precaution, before draining, you should turn the programmer to off so that the boiler can't possibly fire up without water in; some boilers have more safety devices than others, but it's good practise to do this as a matter of routine.
 
What a load of old Cobblers.....Desperately trying to impress now....the jobs sorted matey..stop trying to score points...it`s getting very, very embarrassing...( & a little sad, I feel). (This topic was posted this afternoon by the way).. Funny how you have decided to post at 1.a.m in the morning...
 
The job was far from sorted - you simply repeated lots of parts of the sticky topics, in a big monolothic lump of hard-to-read text, and missed out some vital tips.

If the OP finds my post superfluous and unhelpful then that's fair enough, but you have no influence over where I post and what I post; you being matey with Agile doesn't cut any mustard either.

As far as scoring points goes, this seems to be another ghoul from your imagination, but if you feel that points have been scored then so be it.
 
sorry bamber but softus' post offered some good advise

why you getting your knickers in a knot

we all have opinions on how to do and finish a job. no need to have a pop
 
If you go back & read other posts. then you may understand...why...
 
corgiman said:
sorry bamber but softus' post offered some good advise

why you getting your knickers in a knot

we all have opinions on how to do and finish a job. no need to have a pop
I`m still waiting in the ring ready to drop my hat .......seein` as you refused my Southern Hospitality :cool:
 
BG - I agree entirely with corgiman. We could all add bits of advice to something like changing a pump. It doesn't mean it's an attack on any individual or their contribution.

eg - Moohax: The quarter-turn type pump valves are particularly notorious, they nearly all leak from the spindle as soon as they're touched.
Also, Oilski's method is good, as long as you have the same make and model of pump , otherwise the head won't fit.
I think oilski will not take this as a personal insult or me trying to score points off him... :rolleyes:
 
Nige F said:
corgiman said:
sorry bamber but softus' post offered some good advise

why you getting your knickers in a knot

we all have opinions on how to do and finish a job. no need to have a pop
I`m still waiting in the ring ready to drop my hat .......seein` as you refused my Southern Hospitality :cool:

wow i have never knowingly refused hospitality?

when was this and what was it and, most importantly, does it in anyway include pies?????

:)
 
ChrisR said:
I think oilski will not take this as a personal insult or me trying to score points off him... :rolleyes:

Arrrrggghhh but I posted the same information 2 years ago, how many times do we need to go over the same old ground ;)

Personally I love it when I vaguely interject a random fact and someone else expands and makes sense of it....very lazy you see.
 

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