CH Busted Pump ?

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No,no chaps I'm not a reject from Screwfix, I'm just a visitor here on DIYdoghnuts!!!! The fishing has been great here, I may come back??

Bye bye all & I hope you all have a great Christmas.
 
Googling I found some answers on the use of the capacitor...

In summary, the capacitor provides a delay in the energy given to one of the windings. This delay causes the forces of the motor to be unbalanced and the motor then starts. Economically, capacitor start motors are often more costly due to the inclusion of the capacitor however they have the most starting torque

So if the capacitor is ****ed then there would be no imbalance forces so it won't start....

So Dick, in laymans terms, the capacitor is actually charging itself up on each half wave of the AC thus causing the timing delay and inducing the force. No need for the book... I've been building electronic projects for years :)
 
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Hi malc you're basically there with your understanding but small domestic pumps are usually PSC type motors they are basically capacitor start motors without a internal disconnect
the cap is permanently connected in series with the start coil which takes it out off phase with main coil
so you now have in effect a two phase motor
with power going through it, so it starts to turn like a 3 phase one would do
effectively kickstarting it just enough for for the main coil to take over

have you got a multimeter?or you could try giving it a hand -you need to check the spindle anyway
but theres A good chance the coils are knackerd if was powered on too long
but usually blows fuse too

matt
 
From what you've said you were running and venting the system at the same time, not a good idea.

I noticed that the pump wasn't running, but was too hot to touch
.

Boiler still firing at this point? sounds as if the pump has stuck (it happens a lot) you could remove the vent plug and insert a screwdriver to free it off but could get burnt if its that hot, tap around the body of the pump(large adjustable etc) while its powered up.
 
Well its all fixed and we're warm as toast !

Popped in to Screwfix lunchtime and picked up a terrier pump for £35 (OK may not be the best but it's doing the job and quietly too). Only took half an hour to swap out.

I think it was simply co-incidence that the pump failed at the same time. When removed the inside was a bit cruddy, probably stemming back to the time before I replaced all the pipework and rads last year.

Thanks to all those who contributed in a positive way to this thread.
 
"Malc C:
Popped in to Screwfix lunchtime and picked up a terrier pump for £35 (OK may not be the best but it's doing the job and quietly too). Only took half an hour to swap out. "


What did you use to undo the nuts? None of the shops round here supply a spanner big enough ... do Screwfix do one?
 
What did you use to undo the nuts? None of the shops round here supply a spanner big enough ... do Screwfix do one?

B&Q Value Groove Joint Water Pump Pliers 240mm

0000005005949_001c_v001_zp


Cost less than £5.

The secret is to apply the pressure gently, which reduces the risk of damage to the brass nuts, and or pipework.
 
LOL - yeah... but then most plumbers would..

Time to drain down....
Cost of new valves...
Time to re-fill and clear any airlocks.....

= ££££££££££ :) :D

(puts on fire proof suit) :)
 
LOL - yeah... but then most plumbers would.
I don't know, and I don't care - it's the most competent approach.

Time to drain down....
Draining down would be necessary even if the old pump valves were re-used, so I'm not clear what point you're attempting, and miserably failing, to make.

Cost of new valves...
£6.50.

Time to re-fill and clear any airlocks.....
As above, refilling would be necessary even if refitting the old pump valves.

= ££££££££££ :) :D
£6.50 extra.

And if you did it your way, and the old pump valves starting leaking the next day, would you be happy to pay for a repeat visit, the repeated work, and another dose of inhibitor?
 
Draining down would be necessary even if the old pump valves were re-used, so I'm not clear what point you're attempting, and miserably failing, to make.

I thought the idea of the valves were to enable the pump to be changed without having to drain down the system. - close valves, change pump open valves. As most plumbers work on an hourly rate (or part of), the time it takes to drain down a system would be built into the cost to the customer would it not ??


Fair price... even if that is per valve and ex vat...

As above, refilling would be necessary even if refitting the old pump valves.

Have to disagree... Whats the point of draining the system down when the valves do such a good job of isolating the water. Again my point was that whilst the re-fill might take less time than draining down, by the time the system is vented the customer is being charged for the time

And if you did it your way, and the old pump valves starting leaking the next day,

My valves aren't leaking..... :)
 
As most plumbers work on an hourly rate (or part of), the time it takes to drain down a system would be built into the cost to the customer would it not ?
You clearly have absolutely no idea how most plumbers structure their charges.

Fair price... even if that is per valve and ex vat.
It's for both valves, and includes VAT. A "vat" is a large container.

Whats the point of draining the system down when the valves do such a good job of isolating the water.
Good job? You haven't had to use very many.

Again my point was that whilst the re-fill might take less time than draining down, by the time the system is vented the customer is being charged for the time
Clearly you're one of those people who watch the minutes, instead of valuing the job done and the warranty given.

And if you did it your way, and the old pump valves starting leaking the next day,
I notice that you chopped off half of the sentence, and that you didn't answer the question.

My valves aren't leaking
Maybe not, but your reasoning is full of holes.
 
Whats the point of draining the system down when the valves do such a good job of isolating the water.


I am prepared for some leakage from the isolator valves, but I am hoping that it will be just a dribble at most (why would people fit them if they leak more than that?). So hopefully I can whip out the old pump and bang in the new one with only a small amount of mess ... at least that's the theory, I shall have several big buckets ready anyway :) .

Thanks for the pliers tip; I was in B&Q the other day and saw something that looked rather like that, but I'm sure it was £25 not £5. That's why I didn't buy it; I don't want to pay £25 and find it doesn't work, and it isn't any use for anything else either.
 

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