Changing clutch / release bearing on Fiesta 1.25 Zetec...

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Well SWMBO's fiesta has started to pack up... the brake fluid level keeps going down and the clutch has given in.... It never fully disengages which makes it a ***** to change gear and if stopped with it in gear but your foot on the clutch it tries to creep forwards...

Anyone changed one before? Is it lots of hassle?

I've got sockets up to about 20mm and hex / torx bits, is there anything else I might need to complete the job?

Best go buy a haynes tomorrow :)
 
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This sounds like a hydraulically (not cable or rod) operated clutch, so aren't you heading in the wrong direction?

If the fluid is leaking out then surely the fault is with the master or slave cyinder, not with the clutch plates or bearing?
 
I think its slave cyclinder related but if I'm replacing that I may as well replace the lot as surely the clutch will be contaminated + its done 90 odd k miles
 
Slave cylinders are usually mounted outside the bellhousing and quite low so that escaping fluid doesn't get onto the plates.

To test the clutch, drive the car along a clear road at about 60mph in top gear. Keeping a light pressure on the throttle, dip the clutch and release it suddenly.

Do the engine revs rise when dipping and then abrubtly drop again? If so, then the plates aren't slipping and are unlikely to be contaminated.

If the revs slowly drop back to what they should be, then the clutch lining is worn or contaminated and should be replaced.
 
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nusku said:
Its inside the bell housing on the festa :(
I stand corrected. In which case I can see why you're preparing yourself for the worst. Still worth doing the test though...
 
Its not too bad a job.
Slave is right at the top of the gearbox so can put money on the clutch plate being drowned in fluid and shagged.
Pretty easy to get the box out and the clutch and slave are pretty cheap.
 
Nope (from memory!)
13mm-19mm should be all you need.
The driveshafts should just pull out of the gearbox so no need to undo the hub nut. Should be able to drop the bottom balljoint and swing everything out of the way.
Will help if you can get the car up quite high as there is alot of "underneath" bits to unbolt.

Air box and a few other bits in that area have to come out to give you the space to move.
I done an engine swap a couple of months back and took me near on a day.
 
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