Ford Ranger clutch problem

26 Sep 2006
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United Kingdom
I wonder or John or anyone else can offer any suggestions. This is my sons vehicle and a copy of the a post he placed elswhere.

"All was fine with my MK2 Ranger, sweet gear change and progressive light clutch until the Clutch Master Cylinder started leaking and the clutch wouldn't fully disengage unless you pumped the pedal.

Replaced it with a new unit from Milners, fitted fine, bled the clutch successfully. The problem was it still felt as though there was air present in the system, the clutch still isn't fully disengaging Ran it for a while to see if any trapped air would escape and it did improve a little over time. However it's been getting worse again. Early morning gear changes from 1st to 2nd when the oil's cold are very baulky, the pedal itself is very heavy and the clutch is engaging very near to the floor which makes smooth progress hard work. Unless you absolutely stand on the pedal the clutch isn't really playing ball. Managed to bleed it again today and there was no air in the system.

Are there more than one type of Clutch Master Cylinder with different bore sizes, have I acquire the wrong one, is this one faulty or is there anything else I've missed ?

Any thoughts welcome,

I have since checked it for air, I connected a tube to the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder back to the reservoir and pumped continually for about five minutes, there was a good flow of fluid but no air present.

The initial problem was definitely the master cylinder as the pedal would sink and require pumping to disengage the clutch. It will now disengage but only if you bury your foot in the carpet, Martin also says the clutch is much heavier than it was, I don't remember what it was like but it does feel heavy now.

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At this stage I think I'd go for a pressure bleed provided by the Gunsons Easibleed or similar.
I know it defies all logic, but I've had a couple of vehicles that wouldn't behave in the usual way.
John :)
As above

Correct manual bleed sequence:
Only open bleeder with the pedal pressed.
When the pedal goes to the floor tighten bleeder
Pump pedal up again
With the pedal pressed open bleeder, then re tighten with the pedal still pressed.
Repeat until no air present, it will take two people.

When you have all air out, gently press the pedal down until you can feel movement out of the slave cylinder (if you can). You should have movement almost straightaway when you move the pedal?
Also check for excessive free travel of the pedal before it starts to move master cylinder piston.

If you have good movement of the slave cylinder piston, with the pedal to the floor, consider pressure plate failure. Had one that caused the master cylinder to fail due to excessive pressure needed to work pressure plate. So hopefully not that ..............
Thanks folks. A clutch fault had crossed my mind but I dismissed it on account of it being four wheel drive :eek: It has been bled a number of times and Martin says it is disengaging better since I did it yesterday. Incidentally the default position for the pedal seems to be on the floor, you have to lift it and close the bleed screw and it stays there.

When I bled it I had a pipe connected to the bleed nipple, the other end of which was in the reservoir, rapid pumping gave a very healthy stream of fluid, I think we must have circulated it about a dozen times with no bubbles apart from what was in the pipe initially so I am beginning to think that the sheer amount of effort required to press the pedal right down is the problem - if it does need a clutch I shan't be doing it.

I must have bled hundreds of systems over the last 60 years, some have been difficult but I have never before had one that defies all logic.

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On the Renault Megane Peter, the only way I could get the thing to work was to use a huge syringe filled with fluid and back fill from the slave cylinder......really! I could get the pedal reasonably good with the usual practice.
This one shares the brake fluid reservoir for its supply.
John :)
I would think there is something a miss, as the pedal should come to the top on its own?
Did you notice if the clutch rod moves as you move the pedal at the very top?
I missed that bit :oops:
The pedal must come back to the top, surely...unless the pedal spring has gone, or there never was one?
John :)