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Changing heatmiser wireless receiver

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by jmgh, 15 Nov 2017.

  1. jmgh

    jmgh

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    Hi,

    I am trying to replace a broken and now discontinued heatmiser rc1-w with a newer heatmiser from switch.

    I had to get a plumber out to diagnose, but he didn’t have the spare parts, so I said I’d wire in the replacement as it was just a case of putting the same wires back in the same place.
    68F30267-0FB0-4FAE-8485-8A0157A114F1.jpeg

    Problem is, on the new rf switch there are loads more terminals than there were in the rv1-w.
    1CCCCEC2-1C5C-482D-A629-35B3161281B1.jpeg
    Can anyone advise what goes where so I can avoid calling the plumber out again?

    Many thanks in advance.

    John
     

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  3. echoes

    echoes

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    Assuming you're controlling your heating, just connect the wires that go to B1 and B2 in the old model, to COM1 and NO1 in the new model.

    Assuming the existing wiring is correct and working properly, you don't need to connect anything to the boiler terminals.
    The new model appears to offer an alternative relay to fire the boiler, rather than use the micro switches in zone valve(s)

    What sort of boiler do you have, and do you indeed have a pump or any zone valves external to the boiler?
     
  4. jmgh

    jmgh

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    Many thanks for the reply echoes.

    This was exactly what I was after. Was just unsure whether to wire into the alternative relay rather than the heating zone.

    My boiler is a viessman combi 27kw with a small reserve tank built in.

    I do have hot water underfloor heating on a separate zone controlled by a separate wired thermostat. This wireless one is for the radiators upstairs.

    I haven’t changed the wiring on the original receiver at all and I’m only controlling the heating from this unit, so I should be good to follow your advice.

    Thanks again!
     
  5. jmgh

    jmgh

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    So it should be:

    B1 to com1
    B2 to no1

    Correct?

    Thanks again.

    John
     
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  7. echoes

    echoes

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    Yep. If you know which wire is the live feed, this preferably and conventionally goes to COM1, and the wire to the valve to NO1, but it doesn't matter electrically in this case - unless OCD keeps you awake at night.

    I also have the old model receiver, which suffers from being a bit flimsy which can make the front panel contacts unreliable.
    Is yours dead or just not working properly?
     
  8. jmgh

    jmgh

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    Great, thank you.

    Only minor ocd here so I should be fine!

    Mine receiver stopped working.
    It still received a signal from the thermostat (the led would light up when the stat called for heat) but it wasn’t sending a signal on to the boiler. At least this is what the plumber decided. We tested both zones on the rc 1w but neither were working so I ordered the replacement.

    Thanks again.

    John
     
  9. echoes

    echoes

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    You're welcome! I hope the diagnosis was correct.
     
  10. jmgh

    jmgh

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    All working correctly now. Thanks a million. J
     
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