clogged drain

[Tomswan]

Apologies if this has been covered elsewhere but I could do with a little advice if possible.

I have an annexe with a shower and toilet that feeds into the main waste from the house.

The main waste pipe is running clear, the blockage is in the pipe from the annexe.

I have used drain rods and am now in around 40ft from the access point in the garden.

However I can only get in as far as I need to with the wheel attachment. The augur bit won't pass the bend.
Nor will the rod end with no attachment. I am reluctant to force the issue in case of damage to the pipe.

So I am 'butting' the blockage hoping to shift it but no joy. Occasionally I get a trickle of water come out, and a little bit of matter seepage, but the block is still in situ.

I know the block is around the area where the shower feeds into the soil pipe but I have no idea what it can be to be so stubborn.

Since I am applying pressure from a long way back, perhaps I am losing force and just need to persist.

I have broken off in order to ask if there is anything I can do to aid my efforts - perhaps an industrial strength potion that I could get into the soil pipe via the toilet.

I have a septic tank so it would need to be safe for that.

Alternatively an attachment I haven't read about that will go round corners easily but has something on the end to aid with breaking up the mass.

I suspect a visitor has dropped something down the toilet which should not be there but I can't know that until I can clear it.

Thanks for any pointers - I am running out of ideas.

 

[Tomswan]

On the off chance anyone picks up this thread in the future, I found where the blockage must be and why I can't shift it - the soil stack runs a short distance above ground before going underground using a 90 degree bend. It must then have a short run to another bend before it goes into a straight run - shallower bend - straight run to inspection chamber. I can't shift it because I am rodding against the side of a 90 degree bend above which is the blockage, and the wheel attachment is no use.

If I can't think of anything else I will get it jetted away.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Afraid this is a classic illustration of why a Chamber is required at every change of direction. Rods wont go around bends, so I think your only option may now be to get it jetted. Fingers crossed that will pull out whatever the issue is.

 

[Tomswan]

Afraid this is a classic illustration of why a Chamber is required at every change of direction. Rods wont go around bends, so I think your only option may now be to get it jetted. Fingers crossed that will pull out whatever the issue is.

The easiest thing to do would be to drill a hole in the pipe bend - which is half in and half out of the ground and push a rod through it since that must be where the blockage is.

However, I then have a problem with what to do about the hole. I could obviously patch it but I do not want to fall foul of building regs.

There is a length of surface soil pipe between the bend that takes is below ground and the exterior wall. I wondered about putting a rodding eye in that. I've been researching that but can't find out whether that is permitted. I suppose the minute the pipe is accessed if it is downstream of the toilet foul water will come out.

I've seen pictures of pipe bends with a rodding eye built in, so I suppose if all else fails I could replace what is there with one of those. I'd rather not though.

 

[Tomswan]

Update, again in case anyone accesses the thread - found the cause. a root has wormed its way through the seal between the bend and the pipe just a fraction below ground level.

I did not think that possible. It is quite a strong argument for cementing the joints rather than using rubber seals.

The cause is one thing, the solution is another. The temptation is to dig away round the root and pull in the hope of yanking it out, but who knows how far it has gone in.

More research. If anyone has a pointer please feel free.

 

[HERTS P&D]

Post some pictures.

Andy

 

[Tomswan]

Post some pictures.

Andy

Post some pictures.

Andy

Good idea.

 

[Tomswan]

I got hold of a strap boss with a plug which I plan to use on the grey straight pipe. It won't fit the bend because the contour is wrong. I'm going to have to replace the elbow but first I need to clear what's in there. If I leave the strap boss on the grey pipe I've got a rod or jetter access for future blockages.

 

[HERTS P&D]

Pull the joint off, clear the blockage then cut in and fit this for any future problems:

Access Pipe 110mm

www.toolstation.com

Andy

 

[Tomswan]

Pull the joint off, clear the blockage then cut in and fit this for any future problems:

Access Pipe 110mm

www.toolstation.com

Andy

Thanks Andy. I was going to try a smaller hole first to see if I can avoid getting crap everywhere, but once I've cleared it then that's what I will do. I did look for an elbow with an access point but I didn't see one for that shallow an elbow.

 

[Tomswan]

I'll do it same time as I replace the elbow.

 

[Tomswan]

Sorted. No tree root, nor anything that shouldn't have been in there, just the usual. Just developed somehow into a plug.

I had to go in from the top in the end. I think I had been pushing the blockage back up the pipe from the inspection chamber end because the only tool I could use was the wheel attachment. Had two sets of rods and managed to get all the way down and out into the inspection chamber.

Going to be quite a bit more careful how I treat the system from now on.

Also going to start using stuff to keep pipes clear and to maintain the septic tank.

Just a tip for anyone who does it for the first time - the bends will cause problems if you try to use the augur or just the plain end with no tool on. The wheel will get you round as long as bends aren't 90 degrees.

One thing I did do which I didn't see mentioned anywhere was tie a piece of strong thin cord to the tool end so that if anything separated by unscrewing in the pipe I had a chance of retrieving it.

I don't think the tools are that well designed, unless it's just a DIY thing - professional rods might be a lot better.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Brown pipe is for underground use, it's not protected against UV from the sun, hence why it's so faded, ideally needs replacing where exposed with soil pipe, that is protected. Careful if you plan cutting or drilling it, it may well split/crack, as it's going to be somewhat brittle now.

Pro's will use the Lockfast or Steel rods, done up correctly, they will never come apart once in the sewer.

 

[Tomswan]

Brown pipe is for underground use, it's not protected against UV from the sun, hence why it's so faded, ideally needs replacing where exposed with soil pipe, that is protected. Careful if you plan cutting or drilling it, it may well split/crack, as it's going to be somewhat brittle now.

Pro's will use the Lockfast or Steel rods, done up correctly, they will never come apart once in the sewer.

I did not know that - thanks. It explains why the interior of the pipe was brown but the outside grey when I cut the plug out for the strap boss. Fortunately it was not brittle, but am forewarned so will replace.