Closing floor cavity - urgent!

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Hi guys

What’s the proper way to close this floor cavity? I’m taking out the outer leaf shortly to fit aluminium sliding doors that will be cill less sitting on the outer leaf. They will be flush with the internal and external floor.

The door frame is only 115m wide so the cavity gap needs closing before UFH and tiling.

Floor is block and beam and screeded over.

Need a quick reply if poss please!

Thanks guys
Mikeinthemidlands
 

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You may want to rethink what you are doing, you need a sill to stop water ingress you also need to fit doors and windows as part of the thermal envelope, you will have thermal bridging.
Finishing around the door will also had with no reveal on the outside as will look rubbish.
It would be better to stick a stub sill on and sit it back.

To close the floor cavity you'll need a dpm/c insulaton and then concrete
 
Hi guys

What’s the proper way to close this floor cavity? I’m taking out the outer leaf shortly to fit aluminium sliding doors that will be cill less sitting on the outer leaf. They will be flush with the internal and external floor.

The door frame is only 115m wide so the cavity gap needs closing before UFH and tiling.

Floor is block and beam and screeded over.

Need a quick reply if poss please!

Thanks guys
Mikeinthemidlands

The insulation and screed shouldve been run over the cavity.

if your floor is already screeded, then does that mean you have expansion foam where the screed meets the inside skin of brickwork?

you can dpm and infill with insulation / concrete -however bear in mind it will be separate to the main floor screed so you have effectively made an expansion joint. -you are likely to get tiles cracking at that point.

I would suggest laying ditra mat to isolate the tiling somewhat.
 
Knock a course off the inside leaf and lay DPM across and up and over the outside leaf, and then concrete the threshold. Use slate or insulation across the cavity, or up the block and beam as a shutter. 25mm insualtion up the outside leaf and jambs to stop thermal bridging.
 
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Knock a course off the inside leaf and lay DPM across and up and over the outside leaf, and then concrete the threshold. Use slate or insulation across the cavity, or up the block and beam as a shutter. 25mm insualtion up the outside leaf and jambs to stop thermal bridging.

Thanks guys.

Woody, do you have a diagram/sketch of what you’re describing? I think I understand but not sure about the slate.

Take a course off inner leaf. Run dpm over it across cavity and up the external leaf and out. Doors will sit on said dpm. Then put some 25mm board against the outer leaf wall only then fill remaining hole level to cover the inner leaf and dpm level with the outer leaf?
 
Here is the principle. You need to adapt this to the depths you have or are working to.

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Fantastic thanks guys!

Might be a stupid question but I have two Catnic lintels going spare after removing the wall. Could these not be used upside down on the floor to bridge the cavity? The lintel has insulation in the upstand.
 

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