cold radiators

[dextrous]

Careful, the op may write on your comment board again

nah you have lost me dex

From 179939:

to gaymac

do NOT pm me. ever. again.got it.

did not post a solution,as your solution was posted by other posters.

you are getting a wee bit defensive about this, sadly your only solution is to lift the height of the tank so that its at least 1m above your shower outlet.

don`t get upset with your boyfriend,he read the shower install manual and got a bit mixed up.

Got this info via the op's profile.

 

[glasgowgas]

cheers dex,

this t`internets well dodgy!!!!!!!!!!

 

[gazmac]

they are the ones that just pull off and ive already opend them up b4 i closed the one that gets warm. or should i have dun it the other way round? leaving them closed till i closed that rad? the model is a ocean alph 240 e.

 

[gazmac]

look ill start with sorry okay. i know i shouldnt have posted on your page ok? but at the same time there was no need in you posting that i was a drama queen either was there? look im sorry i carnt spel i hardly went to school. but there is one thing for defo im not a geordie. i live roughly about 40 miles away from geordie land i live in carlisle. im only on this site to see if i can get some help that all.

 

[dextrous]

OK try this -
1/. Unscrew the TRV heads from the valves and use a pair of pliers to try pulling up the little pins since it may be what kev said and that they're jammed.

2/. If no joy, then put the TRVs back on and close all the rads at both ends, including the one that works. Pressurise the system to about 1 1/2 the working pressure. With the heating turned on at the combi bleed each radiator in turn, by turning its valves on at both ends, then closing the rad off again at both ends, but (unusually) leaving the one nearest the boiler until the end. Make sure you top up the pressure as you go, until the last rad. When you've done this, get the system up to normal working pressure and reopen all the valves. Before anyone else laughs, you can see wht I'm trying to achieve here - chasing any airlock out back to the one rad that does emit heat.

The only thing left to possibly bleed will be the boiler itself, and on this I am unsure of what to do and someone else may step in here.

 

[gazmac]

so the side of rad without the numbers on? take the full thing out is that right?

 

[dextrous]

so the side of rad without the numbers on? take the full thing out is that right?

The side with the big white thing with numbers on (the TRV - look for a picture earlier on in this post) - take the big bulbuous thing off.

 

[gazmac]

right sorry im with you now. and when the top of that comes off there is a pin like kev said mite be stuck? and you know you were saying close all the rad and put them on and bleed them should i do that from the the one thats the longest disstance from boiler and work towards it?

 

[dextrous]

The norm is to start from the bottom and work your way up.

 

[gazmac]

so start from bottom and work the way up. sorry to be a bad head what should i do with the two fancy rad that just have taps on the bottom of them?

 

[kevplumb]

and be carefull with the pins or you might get wet

as for the two with valves just treat them the same ie close them

 

[gazmac]

so just close them ones and try the pins on rest of them?? hey i love getting wet even better beter by a bloned!!! if you know what im saying?

 

[kevplumb]

try pushing the pins down with a pair or pliers dont grip them they take a tad of pushing in

 

[gazmac]

so get the covers off and push them down? when you first say they mite be stuck i thought you ment pull them out?

 

[kevplumb]

push down if they wont go down they ARE stuck

then gently pull them btw they only move 1/4"" or so