Coldwater Tank Overlow Leaking

[OrangeMikey]

So I woke up this morning to a smell of damp plaster board......

I've had to come to work today hence I turned of the stop cock and drained the cold water tank so I can investigate more fully when I get home, but I'm fairly sure I've got two issues to fix.

1. The overflow or warning pipe connection is leaking at the cold water tank

2. The float valve isn't shutting off.

For point 2. I'm fairly sure I want to buy one of these: http://www.screwfix.com/p/pegler-prestex-float-valve-part-2/27627#

I'm hoping one of you lovely people will tell me if I should be buying any washers or other sundries to go with it? Also it's listed under toilet spares, are they different for toilets or cold water tanks or am I just worrying there for no reason?

For point 1. I think I need to turn it all back on and identify where the water is coming from to actually fix it. Once I've done that I'm sure I'll be back with more questions.

If I fix the tank so it actually cuts of again will it be possible to hold the ball valve underwater to force it to over fill or will I be going up the loft ladder with jugs of water to get it over flowing again?

 

[Burnerman]

That valve is ideal but you'll need the plastic float to go with it - unless you can use the old one.
Some issues to look in to - the tank overflow should be lower than the valve. (The overflow would normally cope with valve failure - unless it is catastrophic).
Is the overflow actually there / connected?
You shouldn't need any other accessories with the valve, apart from a fibre washer that makes the seal into the cold water pipe connection.
Best to let us know what you find, I think!
John

 

[Charnwood]

For point 2. I'm fairly sure I want to buy one of these: http://www.screwfix.com/p/pegler-prestex-float-valve-part-2/27627#[/QUOTE]
Yes.

If I fix the tank so it actually cuts of again will it be possible to hold the ball valve* underwater to force it to over fill

Yes. (*Float, not valve.)

 

[OrangeMikey]

That valve is ideal but you'll need the plastic float to go with it - unless you can use the old one.

You're good! I found taking the old float off that it had a fair bit of water inside! So glad of the heads up I might need to swap that too.

Some issues to look in to - the tank overflow should be lower than the valve. (The overflow would normally cope with valve failure - unless it is catastrophic).
Is the overflow actually there / connected?

Yes the overflow is there and connected, (and even lower than the inlet) but the pipe coming out of it looks like it was held together with glue that has got too hot and come undone.

I took a couple of photo to try and show the connection, this was still wet once I had the insulating jacket out the way hence I'm fairly sure that's where the water came from. In fact you can see the damp joist in that photo too.

View media item 68657
Can I just replace the glued together joints with something more tough, or do I need to replace the plastic pipe too?

The other good news is much less noise is made from the tank refilling with this new value, but it was a bit boring sitting in the loft waiting for it to finish filling. To check that my workman ship wasn't going to cause more of a disaster.....

 

[Burnerman]

Typically, overflow pipe is made from polyethylene and the joints aren't always glued, just pushed together....as the pipe is rarely if ever called to be used, I guess thats enough. Redo all of the (dried) joints with some appropriate glue, and support the pipe so it falls to the outside but doesn't sag. The overflow pipe should never have been hot though!
A new float is needed - so well spotted on that one, and you'll see the float can be moved up the valve stem and locked in place. Usually this is fine - occasionally you need to bend the float arm to maintain a water level a couple of inches below the overflow. Make sure the float arm rises and falls vertically, of course.
John

 

[OrangeMikey]

The overflow pipe should never have been hot though!

Thanks again John! Your advice here has been much appreciated.

The reason I say it's got hot is I've been in that loft in the heat of summer and it can get like a furnace in there. But I'll get this fixed once it's had a chance to dry.

 

[Charnwood]

Thanks again John! Your advice here has been much appreciated.

But mine hasn't.

 

[OrangeMikey]

But mine hasn't.

And yours too Mark, just in case you feel left out.



I must say I've read the DIYnot forum many times before and it's always a wealth of information, but as a first time asking my own question it has been a pleasure to be reminded that some people will spare their time to help others and make the world a better place.

 

[HERTS P&D]

I've thanked you 'retired shop boy' so that you don't feel left out!

Andy