Combi Boiler shutoff valve cock replacement

[plumplumb]

Anyone know what theses are called? tried "ball valve 90", "ball valve elbow", "90 stop cock", "90 cock", (not what i was expecting). Cant find Image or one for sale. They look exactly like the gas cock, is it a gas part? My flow valve has developed a leak via the stem.

As far as i can tell its a 3/4 thread to the CH pipe and 3/4 to the boiler.

Thought maybe replace it with a 90 and female coupler, with a 22mm ball valve on the pipe further on. But what about the fill point? does it matter if the shutoff is after the fill point?

Its a volkera compact 25.

Thanks

 

[oldbuffer]

Try https://www.dhsspares.co.uk/product/vokera-1789-heating-valve-1530100. Its a part specific to the boiler (and others in the Vokera range).

 

[ianmcd]

They look exactly like the gas cock, is it a gas part? My flow valve has developed a leak via the stem.

Nope it is not a gas valve , the link that @ old buffer supplied you with is the correct part, you will not get them with the black lever on any more, do not alter the filling loop, and you would be well advised to change both the flow and return valves at the same time , and do not operate the new ones

 

[plumplumb]

thanks for the link.

"do not operate the new ones" are you saying they are prone to this? Just wondering if it would be better to redo the CH connections with standard parts. couple of 3/4" or 22mm ball/gate valves.

Thinking about putting radiant floor in the kitchen so will need at least zone valves, mixer probably. (Further research required, only one loop btw) Basically going to have to re-plumb it anyway.

The two valves for flow and return, are going to cost me £40ish. If they are garbage can't really see the point in replacement same for same. Is there something special about them?

Thanks

 

[Madrab]

Many central heating flow and return valves are prone to leaking, it's just the nature of the valves manufacturing materials, the design of the valves themselves and the environment they work in (hot to cold - repeat).

 

[ianmcd]

thanks for the link.

"do not operate the new ones" are you saying they are prone to this? Just wondering if it would be better to redo the CH connections with standard parts. couple of 3/4" or 22mm ball/gate valves.

Thinking about putting radiant floor in the kitchen so will need at least zone valves, mixer probably. (Further research required, only one loop btw) Basically going to have to re-plumb it anyway.

The two valves for flow and return, are going to cost me £40ish. If they are garbage can't really see the point in replacement same for same. Is there something special about them?

Thanks

You will have to use the correct isolation valves and yes if used they are prone to leaking, not just your ones but most, they are cheap shoite, if you are going to have to isolate the flow and returns for any reason, then fit full flow valves on the flow and return and use them.