1)
Don't know boiler make - but it is a gas cylinder.
2) This is the problem:
Our ball cock keeps getting debris in it causing the valve to block.
Normal flow reduces to a trickle.
Other symptoms:
As this water flow starts to reduced due to the debris blockages in the high pressure ball cock in the main water tank, the water gets so little that the water sways in the tank causing a shh shh shh sound from the ball cock. When it gets to the tiny tiny trickle stage, it does not fill tank and it gets blocked
Our plumber is nice and charges little.
He has come to the conclusion that our cast iron pipes are breaking down and this will continue to happen. We will have to keep unblocking the high pressure ball valve of cast iron debris.
In short, we also tried a low pressure ball cock,
also tried a low pressure ball cock and reducing the water pressure with the local water reducing tap (not a proper tap its one of those you use a screw driver on to turn the water flow on and off)
I think we also tried low pressure ball cock and fully opened local water tap, but this time with mains water tap in bath room slightly closed so to reduced main water flow in the house.
I believe in these cases we got water hammer, and or a loud sound of water pressurised trying to get though the reduced tap openings.
Is it possible to use a low pressure ball cock with an anti-hammer valve if one exists and a pressure reducing valve - if one exists?
Is it possible to use the following setup –
mains water pipe comes to the attic, it then splits into two and feeds 2 tanks about 40gal each and each with a ball cock, this should reduce pressure, hopefully no hammer issues and yet the low pressure ball cock will allow the sediment to flow right through just like the toilet cisterns.
just to say we have no other problems to my knolwedge with out plumbing.
we have been cleaning out the high pressure ball cock for about 3 years now. I have got him to replace it 2 just for high pressure ball cocks alone let alone for the low pressure 1 we used to try all the experiments out on. He has changed the washer(s) i think there is only one to change. The ball itself I believe is the original first put in – never changed since the new black plastic tank since 3 years ago.
Its just the sediment that blocks the high pressure ball cock's small opening as it enters the ball cock.
3)
The problems all started when our main water tank leaked. There were 2 metal ones. They were replaced with one black plastic one. I’m not sure why but the newer black tank seems a tad bit smaller to me. Also the arrangement used to be, main water off the street fed the 2 tanks (the 2 tanks were setup so either 1 was fed and the other was connected to it or the tanks were set with a ball cock each.
In either case they supplied 2 bath rooms, 1 was fed with cold and hot via these tanks whilst downstairs was fed for hot water and cold water was sourced direct from street .
New arrangement-
Since 3 years now - is that one 40 gal tank supplies gas hot water cylinder and in turn supplies 2 bath rooms with HOT water, but only one bath room is supplied with cold off the main tank and other bath room is supplied with cold direct off the street.
4)
The problem started about 3 years ago when the arrangement was change see above explanation
5)
It seems to happen over a build up of time, say 4 - 6 -9 months. Sediments block the high pressure ball cock – due to the valve having a too small opening.
Help!!! Please it’s such a problem for us...
Regards
Don't know boiler make - but it is a gas cylinder.
2) This is the problem:
Our ball cock keeps getting debris in it causing the valve to block.
Normal flow reduces to a trickle.
Other symptoms:
As this water flow starts to reduced due to the debris blockages in the high pressure ball cock in the main water tank, the water gets so little that the water sways in the tank causing a shh shh shh sound from the ball cock. When it gets to the tiny tiny trickle stage, it does not fill tank and it gets blocked
Our plumber is nice and charges little.
He has come to the conclusion that our cast iron pipes are breaking down and this will continue to happen. We will have to keep unblocking the high pressure ball valve of cast iron debris.
In short, we also tried a low pressure ball cock,
also tried a low pressure ball cock and reducing the water pressure with the local water reducing tap (not a proper tap its one of those you use a screw driver on to turn the water flow on and off)
I think we also tried low pressure ball cock and fully opened local water tap, but this time with mains water tap in bath room slightly closed so to reduced main water flow in the house.
I believe in these cases we got water hammer, and or a loud sound of water pressurised trying to get though the reduced tap openings.
Is it possible to use a low pressure ball cock with an anti-hammer valve if one exists and a pressure reducing valve - if one exists?
Is it possible to use the following setup –
mains water pipe comes to the attic, it then splits into two and feeds 2 tanks about 40gal each and each with a ball cock, this should reduce pressure, hopefully no hammer issues and yet the low pressure ball cock will allow the sediment to flow right through just like the toilet cisterns.
just to say we have no other problems to my knolwedge with out plumbing.
we have been cleaning out the high pressure ball cock for about 3 years now. I have got him to replace it 2 just for high pressure ball cocks alone let alone for the low pressure 1 we used to try all the experiments out on. He has changed the washer(s) i think there is only one to change. The ball itself I believe is the original first put in – never changed since the new black plastic tank since 3 years ago.
Its just the sediment that blocks the high pressure ball cock's small opening as it enters the ball cock.
3)
The problems all started when our main water tank leaked. There were 2 metal ones. They were replaced with one black plastic one. I’m not sure why but the newer black tank seems a tad bit smaller to me. Also the arrangement used to be, main water off the street fed the 2 tanks (the 2 tanks were setup so either 1 was fed and the other was connected to it or the tanks were set with a ball cock each.
In either case they supplied 2 bath rooms, 1 was fed with cold and hot via these tanks whilst downstairs was fed for hot water and cold water was sourced direct from street .
New arrangement-
Since 3 years now - is that one 40 gal tank supplies gas hot water cylinder and in turn supplies 2 bath rooms with HOT water, but only one bath room is supplied with cold off the main tank and other bath room is supplied with cold direct off the street.
4)
The problem started about 3 years ago when the arrangement was change see above explanation
5)
It seems to happen over a build up of time, say 4 - 6 -9 months. Sediments block the high pressure ball cock – due to the valve having a too small opening.
Help!!! Please it’s such a problem for us...
Regards
