Company fuse.

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I want to replace the consumer unit. I will notify the local building control who will check the work and have a sparks test the whole system when I have finished. However there is not enough slack on the company fuse to cut the supply and I certainly don't want to do it live. Any suggestions? If I contact EDF are they going to charge me a fortune? :confused:
 
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50p that much, I must have increased with inflation. Do I just cut the seal and pull the company fuse or do EDF have to do that. Last time I replaced a CU there was enough slack on the wire seal but not this time. I have no intention of even thinking about doing it live, yes I do value my life.
 
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Do NOT remove the fuse yourself. Why?
- you are not supposed to, as it is EDF property
- removing it is working live, which you have already stated you don't want to do.
- there may be other unforseen difficulties which could result in fire, injury or worse.
 
I want to replace the consumer unit.
  • For a circuit to supply a given load, how would you go about deciding what cable and protective device to use? (No, you can't just copy what's there because it's going to become your responsibility and what's there might be wrong.)

  • Do you know which circuits can be ring finals and which cannot, and what the advantages and disadvantages of each are? (No, you can't just copy what's there because it's going to become your responsibility and what's there might be wrong.)

  • How do you calculate maximum demand and how can diversity be used?

  • Can you correctly identify all components and connections of a circuit by method of testing or otherwise? In doing so can you identify or recognise anything wrong or dangerous with the circuit? You cannot assume that what's currently installed is OK, and you need to check it before starting work.

  • Do you understand how the way in which cables are installed affects how much current they can carry? (No, you can't just copy what's there because it's going to become your responsibility and what's there might be wrong.)

  • Where cables need to be joined, how should this be done / not be done and in what circumstances are different methods acceptable?

  • Can you identify extraneous conductive parts, and do you know the requirements for main and supplementary bonding of them?

  • Which circuits should be RCD protected?

  • What about the testing that you should do on your existing installation before you change the CU, if you want to be sure of avoiding grief from new RCDs tripping?

  • You say you'll get an electrician to test the whole system - do you realise that there are tests which should be done before you turn the power back on?

I will notify the local building control who will check the work
They probably won't.


and have a sparks test the whole system when I have finished.
Have you checked what your LABC require in terms of inspection & testing by a 3rd party electrician?

Do they even work that way at all?

Have you found an electrician prepared to do what your LABC will require?

Or are your plans based on a lot of untested assumptions?



Do you know that the total of the following:
  1. Cost of new CU at retail price

  2. LABC notification charge

  3. Cost of electrician to come out and test
is going to be less than just getting a registered electrician to replace the CU?

I'd not be surprised if it's going to be more expensive to do it your way, and for something with more risk of hassle and no warranty on the work.
 
I want to replace the consumer unit. I will notify the local building control who will check the work and have a sparks test the whole system when I have finished.

Their are two ways to rewire in England and Wales:

1) Notify building control (LABC)
2) Rewire/Change consumer unit etc while inspecting for compliance.
3) Certify the installation by completing a BS7671 Electrical Installation Certificate which will require calibrated test equipment and electrical engineering knowledge.
4) Pay LABC fee
5) Have LABC inspect the work and the certificate.
6) Rework any non compliances and have LABC inspect again for another fee.

Or

1) Use a registered (self certification) electrician who will take care of everything.



However there is not enough slack on the company fuse to cut the supply and I certainly don't want to do it live. Any suggestions? If I contact EDF are they going to charge me a fortune? :confused:

You must not pull the main fuse! Apart from the fact that it is illegal some main service heads are decades old, if it falls apart on you then stand by for a big bang in front of you and some distance away as the 200/250/400 amp fuses blow at your supply transformer which will likely take out part of the street. That will cost you a small fortune!
 
You must not pull the main fuse! Apart from the fact that it is illegal some main service heads are decades old, if it falls apart on you then stand by for a big bang in front of you and some distance away as the 200/250/400 amp fuses blow at your supply transformer which will likely take out part of the street. That will cost you a small fortune!

This is what the DNO engineers wear just to pull the fuse. And they are fully trained in the proper way to do it.
PS Marigolds won't do.
 
You must not pull the main fuse! Apart from the fact that it is illegal some main service heads are decades old, if it falls apart on you then stand by for a big bang in front of you and some distance away as the 200/250/400 amp fuses blow at your supply transformer which will likely take out part of the street. That will cost you a small fortune!

I can only Echo that statement.....As some of you lads are aware we had a jointer that had an accident at a cutout last month whilst cutting a single phase...which potentially is similar to a cut-out shorting/faulting...he was badly burned across the face and arm because he didnt have the ppe shown in the pic above.....Had he worn it he would be allowed to go on his hoildays this year and be able to sit out in the sun..... :rolleyes:

Please leave the Cutout to the DNO staff!!
 
Please leave the Cutout to the DNO staff

Correct, I just wish all the supposedly qualified electricians that still do it because they think they know how to, would stop doing it.
 
Please leave the Cutout to the DNO staff

Correct, I just wish all the supposedly qualified electricians that still do it because they think they know how to, would stop doing it.



Seeing first hand a simulated 2.5KA short (even with a 100amp fuse fitted) should be part of some sort of training at the surveillance checks done by the registration bodies. We all (including myself) become complacent and such a demonstration would remind us! Then we have the DIY people who are not trained electricians who think (understandably) the biggest concern about a live wire is an electric shock - Electric shock is certainly a concern but the burns from a shorted meter tail or even worse before the service fuse make a non fatal electric shock quite preferable !!
 
efiste2";p="2043035 said:
Please leave the Cutout to the DNO staff!!
I've deliberated on the wording so as not to seem complacent or arrogant but however I write it it seems one or the other but...

...why do the DNOs not fit a safe method of isolation to their equipment to protect us and enable us to work safely?

Either it's DO NOT PULL THE CUT-OUT (DNOs - is it really law?) or DO NOT WORK LIVE (EAWR it is really law).

We ARE allowed to work on the other end of the wires but we have to comply with two contradictory rules.
 
AIUI even with the fuse pullled, the tails are still 'live' because the neutral is connected, and isolation requires phase and neutral to be isolated.

A particularly high risk on an overhead TT supply where the neutral is not tied to earth at the service intake and the phase and neutral might have got reversed on their way from the pole.
 

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