Concrete Floor Slab Problems

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Currently refurbishing my sitting room in a 60's built bungalow. I knew the concrete floors in all the rooms were in a poor state, being unlevel and sounding 'hollow' in places. The plan was to strip off the original Marley tiles and lay down self levelling latex.

However, after eventually getting off all the tiles (b*tch of a job!), the floor was in a much worse state than I had thought. There were some pretty big cracks, and in some areas it looked like the slab had lifted and sounded very 'hollow'. So out came the SDS bolster chisel… I was initially quite pleased to discover that it was a very poor top screed that was the problem. Ranging in thickness of 3/4" – 2" (!), it came away from the main floor slab quite easily, the slab underneath appeared to be quite solid and sound.

I then made a very strange discovery, see pic below… A diagonal channel through the slab about 2" wide. I initially thought it was a tree root, as there was signs of rotten wood, but it was too straight. It runs from wall to wall and cuts the slab in half, I can only assume it was put in when they laid the slab at the point they ran out of concrete! But diagonally?! It think the process of the wood rotting was the main cause of the screed cracks. Digging through the channel showed the slab to be about 3" thick, but straight on top of soil, no apparent hardcore or DPM.

So, I'm left with two options; either bodge up the 'gap' with concrete and lay a new screed over the top, but the top surface of the slab is very sandy so I wouldn't be confident it would adhere. Or to do the job properly, break up the whole floor and re-lay with DPM and proper insulation.

If I go for re-laying it, I've thought I might go for a suspended wooden construction, as I can do the whole job myself, and figure it will be cheaper and I would not have to excavate down as far.

Would appreciate comments / opinions / suggestions.

Many thanks.

DSC02740a.jpg
 
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I really think you need to bear in mind other potential problems here, you have a slab laid without hardcore, if the ground has high levels of sulphates then the slab may well be suffering from sulphate attack; it's unlikely that a sulphate resistant cement was incorporated into the concrete mix. I'd also be concerned that the surface of the concrete appears quite friable, you mentioned that the surface was sandy... Is this definitely from the slab or is it from the screed you've pulled up? I suspect if you try to overlay that you'll have problems further down the line. Either way, I don't really like the look of it and I'd go with your suggestion of grubbing up the slab and replacing with a floating timber floor. If you do this remember to install airbricks so that the subfloor is well ventilated.
 
Thanks Joe. Now pretty much made my mind up to bite the bullet and dig the lot up, and replace with proper concrete solid floor, comprising hardcore, DPM, 100mm Jabfloor insulation and 100mm concrete. Have now also confirmed that the inner walls are on a foundation and not the slab, so I figured this solution should be fine.
 
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OK, it's definitely sensible to take it up but I always try and steer people away from retrofit concrete purely because it's virtually impossible to properly tie in the dpm to the existing dpc. See if you've got an overlap on the existing dpc when you grub up the slab, if you haven't then you'll have problems tieing it in.
 
The DPC is approx 35mm below the top face of the existing screed. It is my intention to tuck the new DPM into the DPC before the insulation and concrete go in.
 
One other thing, was planning to use the broken up slab and screed as the hardcore to put back in, do you see a problem with this?
 
Yes, given the points i mentioned earlier, if there's sulphates in the slab then you'll be introducing it to the new slab. Even if the DPM prohibits this the sulphate attack won't stop just because you've broken up the slab. It's an expansive reaction and may still cause some movement or cracking in the new floor. Plus I don't think the slab or screed will compact particularly well. I'd start afresh if I was you.
 
If its sulphates, then you will need to remove about 1m of ground below the slab.

Is there ash clinker as hardcore below the slab? Or a history of sulphate attack in the locality?
 
It was merely an "if there's sulphates" comment earlier in the thread Woodyboi ;)
 
The issue was that there isn't any hardcore, just a concrete slab in direct contact with the ground. If the ground has high sulphate levels then excavating down 1m won't serve any purpose.
 
If the ground has high sulphate levels then excavating down 1m won't serve any purpose.

Thats right - the sulphates will be rotting away the foundations so the floor would be the least of the OP's worries. :eek:
 

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