Condensing light switches?

Why not? whats its got to do with you? Go way if you can't offer sensible assistance.
What is has to do with me is that I believe this forum should offer good advice, and should not facilitate working in ignorance.

I did offer sensible assistance - it's there in the post I made on the 27th, at 22:44.
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If he had the tools which he should have, and the knowledge which he should have, he would be able to work out which wire is which.
I do agree in the context of your meaning.

However, taken to its logical conclusion, there should be no wiring diagrams - anywhere.

If I draw a diagram showing how it is now and another to achieve what is wanted, is that any different than a DIYer following a diagram for a S-plan heating system?
Indeed, is it fundamentally any different than being told to put that wire in that hole?
Having followed such instructions, the DIYer may then understand how it works. After all two-way lighting circuit diagrams can be confusing.

Should JohnW2 not try and repair his meter?
At the moment, I think it fair to say that he is at a loss and does not know what to do.
Had he a diagram and advice from an expert, who was familiar with the problem, to do this and that would you say he should not do it as he didn't understand how it works?
Wow, i wasnt expecting this when i checked back on the post! Also, just to reassure those concerned I have no intention of blindly connecting wires to holes unless i can see the logic behind it. If it looks too difficult or is going to be a lot of hassle (which im starting think it maybe) then i will get a pro in.
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There does not need to be any guesswork, Ban.
He knows (or can quickly deduce) which switch wires need removing. He knows which are remaining. If some need disconnecting and reconnecting, a note can be made of the existing connections.
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Having drawn it all out on paper, it looks like what you want to do is remove the entrance porch light & its associated switches. Or do you want to keep the entrance porch light and connect it so that it comes on together with the hall light?

That will leave a 1 gang 1 way switch by the door for the outside light, and a 2 gang switch for the hall (2 way with the existing untouched switch at the other end of the hall) and toilet.

Are we to assume the hall/ toilet switch is being recessed where the stud wall was (ie not re-siting that switch)?

So, it is a case of identifying, disconnecting and removing the switch wiring (or connecting all cores to ground) then fixing the hall/ toilet switch box and recessing the wiring.

I think Securespark has understood what i have poorly portrayed.
The left most double switch controls an outside light and entrance hall light. The next double switch (was originally located on the other side of the stud wall) controls the entrance hall light and the hall light. The single switch, shown in the photo, operates the cloakroom/toilet light. Finally there's another switch (not shown in the photo) at the bottom of the hall which operates the hall light.

Blue Peter style diagram of how it is (on left) and how i'd like it (on right)


EFLI - will take another photo when i get back home from work. please dont spend too much time or effort, as mentioned if its too difficult for a novice then i will get a sparky in.
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Very similar to my drawings (except mine are scruffy and in pencil....)!

Do you have access to the underfloor space above?

Ideally you should strip out the unwanted switch wires and those connected to the entrance hall light and you will need to run a cable between the two hall fittings.
Just need to see better what is going on in the first switch by the front door (switch 1).

Can you get a better picture of which wires from which cables goes to which terminals?

I can see blue and black: are they connected to each other?

So far I have:

RYB three core connected to entrance hall switch.
RYB three core which I think comes from the entrance hall light carrying red (feed to common of outside switch), yellow (switch wire?) and blue (neutral for outside light).
RB twin and earth with black connected to blue and red connected to L1 of outside light, but there is a wire missing on my diagram that I cannot see clearly in the picture. There must be a feed to the terminal with the red wire in on the entrance hall switch linking to the common on the outside light switch.
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The yellow of the 3 core in switch position 1 that has the blue connected to the black will be redundant in the new set up, but you need to keep the other cores to give you a feed and a neutral for the outside light.

The other 3 core in switch 1 can be disconnected and removed. This will link to switch position 2, being the other side of the 2 way switching for the entrance hall light.

The (now spare) way in switch 2 can be used for the toilet light.

At the entrance hall light ceiling position you will need to disconnect the yellow that is in the 3 core that drops down to the switch 1 position.

The entrance hall fitting will need to pick up a switched feed from the other hall light.
Your diagram looks accurate to me and very clear/easy to understand.

Looks like you've both figured it out anyhow, but should it help i've marked the cables which are sheathed/sleeved.

Again, thank you both for the help so far ;)


The blue & black in switch 1 are connected with a terminal block
Yes, the blue and black should be connected.

Great! - so now you know exactly what goes where with no guesswork.

Have you got access to the under-floor void upstairs?
ok cheers. ill confirm the connections/colours shortly.
the house is a fairly new (less than 20yrs old). i have no idea why they though it was necessary to have this number of switches. now the wall has been removed i can literally reach both switches without taking a single step as they're in arms reach of each other.
if i got an electrician in, would this be a minimum call out job?

It maybe easier to just combine the 2 gang and 1 gang into a 3gang plate using the existing wiring. And leave the switching as is ? just connect one switch at a time to avoide confusion, and a disco effect !:D

Looks like you've both figured it out anyhow, but should it help i've marked the cables which are sheathed/sleeved.
Not really; they are all live.

Here you go.
To keep Bas happy, Study it so you understand how it works.


Only two alterations - 1 and 2

Disconnect the other wires and terminate in a connector block.
You can put the red and yellow in one block if you want.

If you are going to remove the switches to feed in the cables, number all the wires before disconnecting.

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