Conflicting advice from tradesman

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yea yea cavity as states above.
Was that bit there before or did you edit it in with the link :confused:

So choice is;
• Quick/cheap fix - dot & dab 12.5mm square edge MR board, tape joins, prime untilled area & finish skim, tile straight onto the board for the rest.
• Proper way but extended waiting/drying time before tiling can start & rendering more expensive - complete re-render of base, finish skim untilled areas & tile the rest.
 
yea yea cavity as states above.
Was that bit there before or did you edit it in with the link :confused:

So choice is;
• Quick/cheap fix - dot & dab 12.5mm square edge MR board, tape joins, prime untilled area & finish skim, tile straight onto the board for the rest.
• Proper way but extended waiting/drying time before tiling can start & rendering more expensive - complete re-render of base, finish skim untilled areas & tile the rest.

for Option 2. - Complete removal of existing render required?
 
for Option 2. - Complete removal of existing render required?
If what’s left is firmly attached, you can render & patch repair the rest of the wall up to/around it & then tile or skim over but stripping it all back will make life a lot easier if it’s patchy or there not much left; removal may be better in areas that are to be finished skimmed.

Your spread has recommended you strip it back & he may well be right. It’s difficult to assess without seeing it in the flesh or some decent photos of the entire walls; cant really asses anything meaningful from the ones you’ve currently posted.
 
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Remember though - render is awfully cold.
 
Remember though - render is awfully cold.
Main reason for my recommending render over Gypsum is so he can tile straight onto it & (without knowing OP's tile preference) maintain maximum tile weight; plaster will knock you back 30%. With a stripped wall in a conventionally decorated wall, I would go with Multi over a suitable Gypsum base plaster ;)
 
Tells me alot, that is right in my neck of the woods!! You have got cavity walls, I suspect your tiles are originals and were bedded in on cement onto the render from new. Your kitchen wont be very large if this house hasnt had the kitchen and dining room knocked through so dabbing it out may make your galley quite narrow. I would hack off back to brick (which will prob dabage the face of the bricks) and get if properly rendered and plastered. This will cost more than dabbing out and be messier and more time consuming, but it will give a better finish if executed properly.
 
Cheers for all the advice,

the house was built in 1956, and yes the tiles were pretty heavy duty, spotted directly onto the render floor to ceiling.

the room is 3200mm by 2900 so its pretty square.

tiles to be used will be brick shaped white/cream (not that colour matters) brick tiles with beaveled edges. so not too weighty.
Tiles are also to be only used as splah back so between base and hung cabs and window sil.


kitchen to be installed is a 24 unit ushape with hung cabinets on 2 walls leaving sink under the window, and oposite full height intergrated oven fridge and larder. two doors 1 external 1 internal.

With the existing render. worst affected with the un-smooth are the two walls with high cabinets to be hung.

There is scope to accomodate the depth of D&D in the kitchen fitting.
 
The best job you could do here, is to strip back to the brick and go again,Gypsum or render the choice is yours. But if the render left is still well attached I would personally go over the whole lot with bonding then skim/tile as necessary
 
Final update.
Went for bonding and Render in the end and all is good in the world.

Took a while to dry out but all good, :)

cheers for everyones advice. :mrgreen:
 

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