Connect WC pan to Underground Soil Pipe

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Would like info on how to connect a new WC pan to an underground soil pipe. The soil pipe is under approx 2" concrete and roughly 4ft down and about 2.5ft off the WC external wall, so there is a foundation to get through as well. What would be the best tools to get through all this concrete and what pipe fittings will I need to complete the job, assuming the soil pipe is clay.


 
A Bosch breaker to get through, then a shovel, bucket, bags or barrow. A mini-grinder to cut the pipe. Some plasters for your knuckles

A swept tee junction, two rubber connectors, a long radius bend, a bit of pipe, then either connect the pan or you may need a stub-stack and air admittance valve depending on the pipe run
 
where exactly does the foul waste pipe exit the building in relation to the toilet position?

just bunging a connection underground is not always acceptable as you may be creating a vulnerable junction, that may not be easily serviceable. these locations need rodding access from a nearby inspection chamber or rodding eye.

besides which, 4' down is rather deep. the hole would need to be large and space looks tight in the photo.

also, you would need to cut the pipe with an angle grinder to form a junction. not only is this difficult to do, but it carries a risk, particularly with clay pipe.

if the cut happens to fall near a pipe junction then things could get tricky and old salt glaze tarred rope m/f connections are rather fragile.
 
p.s. if you find the pipe encased in concrete just back-fill the hole and have a rethink. :shock: :lol:

it can be chiseled away (carefully) but be prepared for some serious subterranean pipe wrangling and a lot of digging.
 
Someone told me I need to cut a hole in the wall of the clay pipe and attach a plastic pipe. Is this OK or should I cut a section from the clay pipe and insert a plastic T.
 
There is a maximum allowable distance between the toilet outlet & the drain invert & you can check this in Part H of the Building regs. I believe 4ft will exceed this (I don’t have access to my BR’s at the moment as I am in Spain till Sept 5th :lol: :lol: & can only use a dial up PC :cry: ) in which case you will have to provide a stub stack & air admittance valve as Woody suggests. BR’s also only allow the use of an AAV if there is an open vent somewhere else on your foul drain system; be aware this work is also notify able to your LABC & they may well wan't to inspect & witness tests on a new connection.

I would give it some serious thought before you go ahead, it may be better to find another solution; this is what I opted for when confronted with a similar problem. What your proposing could be fraught with problems with the potential to turn into a nightmare with a hole inside your property large enough to bury Gordon Brown! :shock:
 
Just to check i have the details correct here....

Your drain runs not underneath the building but outside the building?

Why dont you just core out a 5' hole through the wall, excavate and connect in a branch to run your toilet to. If the soil is cast, hire a set of snap cutters if your not comfortable with an angle grinder ( which can be a bit of a pain anyway tbh).
Then run your vent stack straight up the outside wall!

Seems too easy, makes me think ive missed something! :D

P.S Wouldn't put it too near that door!! :lol:
 
Got a 'builder' to do the job...
Take a look at these pics... He bit off more than he could chew with this one! 'hacked' one end of the clay pipe. Didn't do a water leak test before filling with soil and rubble. Got the pipe measurements wrong. Got the WC entry angles wrong. I should have done a DIY after all.

I'll let you know how this 'pans' out, builder taking a rest after a few hours struggle.
 
I am afraid that will not pass br for a few things.
No access chamber above new joint.
No venting
No rodding access

The inspector may even ask for an air test for tightness so you will need to excavate any way for him/her to view

Has it been signed off yet?

Sorry to give you bad news

Pete
 
Not sure if an inspection cover and vent is needed in this case. There is a large open access point just a couple of yards from this new connection.

My main concern is no leak test was done and the builder really struggled connecting the pipes which may have weakened the seal on the collars.
Also, the collar attached to the female side of the plastic T is fitted over a short pipe inserted into the female T. I don't know if this is the correct T for the job. He really should dig it all out, connect to the WC and then do a proper leak test. I will have a word when he returns tomorrow.
This builder is a genuine COWBOY.
 
As myself & Peter have said, that doesn't comply with current regs; I assume your not getting the BI in then!
 
Deary me! Hes made a job of that!

Would be extremly tempted to redo that, and i wouldn't say it was beyond the scope of a fairly competant diy'er, but it does baffle me why it was taken underneath then out.

Your new toilet will almost certainly be a horizontal outlet so by bringing the pipe in like that ( even if it was properly vertical!!!) your just giving yourself extra work!

As i said above, it would be much easier to go throught the wall, into an inspection T, up with the vent, and down with the waste!

And yes you will need a vent!
 
Just to add, love the schoolboy mistake of puting the fittings the wrong way round!

And also, and this is quite an important point, it looks like the T is in the wrong way round too, assuming you have taken the photo from the same angle as the one with your door, and the drain runs away from the house and not underneath, if you know what i mean!
 

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