Connecting American applience

tim west said:
You could use a very very long extension lead. Stick some floats on the bit that streches across the Atlantic. O f Course you would have to uprate the cable to allow for volt drop, now what size cable would you need?;)
Your post is very 'helpful' (at least if it would be funny), and as you are such an smart A** I am sure you can calculate the VD yourself...
 
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Many thanks for the replies. I think that the idea of a new D/W is the most practical one.
 
Albert said:
tim west said:
You could use a very very long extension lead. Stick some floats on the bit that streches across the Atlantic. O f Course you would have to uprate the cable to allow for volt drop, now what size cable would you need?;)
Your post is very 'helpful' (at least if it would be funny), and as you are such an smart A** I am sure you can calculate the VD yourself...
Chill out, can't take a joke?
 
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tim west said:
Albert said:
tim west said:
You could use a very very long extension lead. Stick some floats on the bit that streches across the Atlantic. O f Course you would have to uprate the cable to allow for volt drop, now what size cable would you need?;)
Your post is very 'helpful' (at least if it would be funny), and as you are such an smart A** I am sure you can calculate the VD yourself...
Chill out, can't take a joke?
Sorry!
I was not in the mood. Jokes are very welcome if/when they are part of a useful post...
BTW I went to see the washer/dryer, it is 5000W unit, and the good news is that it is 220/240V 50Hz. It seems that the 13A switch that was installed to control the unit become a bit sweaty... :cry: I will change it tomorrow with a basic 45A cooker control...
 
Are you sure the appliance is pure 110V, a lot of american applicances are mostly 240V with just a few controls on 110V, if this is the case then you may be able to use a smallish autotransformer to create a center tap.
 
plugwash said:
Are you sure the appliance is pure 110V, a lot of american applicances are mostly 240V with just a few controls on 110V, if this is the case then you may be able to use a smallish autotransformer to create a center tap.
You are right it is 220V/240V.
 
can you get inside it and check if both the motor and the heater are 240V devices?
 
word of note / caution

some usa appliances are 220v, but they are still 60hz, and they use 2 x 120 legs for them to work.

a bit like site transformers use 2 x 55v legs to give 110
 
breezer said:
word of note / caution

some usa appliances are 220v, but they are still 60hz, and they use 2 x 120 legs for them to work.

a bit like site transformers use 2 x 55v legs to give 110
I looked at the machine today, the information on the machine was clearly written: 220V-240V, 50Hz. Do you think that it could be mis-leading and although it is marked as mentiond it can be 2 x 120V etc.
 
how many wires are there in the mains lead and what colors are they?
 
North american market Tumble driers are 240v they have a seperate supply to their houses & different shaped plugs .......

I know this because I was in Canada & bought somone a TD, then had to carry it up 10,000 flights of stairs cos the lifts were out ........ Anyways it just plugged right in (Funny plug in to funny socket) ...... Then I googled what it was all about, cos I'm nosey like that :D

Maybe Dishwashers are the same ........ Dunno :?:
 
John M said:
North american market Tumble driers are 240v they have a seperate supply to their houses & different shaped plugs .......
No the don't have a seperate supply, they have a supply with two live wires and a neutral with the live wires having opposite polarity so you get 240V between them. Many larger appliances run on 240V BUT they often contain 120V control electronics.
 

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