Connecting Grid Switches

[steq184]

Hi,
I have extended a ring main to a new grid box with 3x20A double pole switches.

My idea of connecting are:
1. Connect the earth cable from the incoming ring main to the grids yoke.....then onto the earths of from the appliances.
2. Connect the neutral cable from the incoming ring main into a connector block in the the grid box ....then onto the Feed N on the grid switch.
3. Connect the live from the incoming ring main to a connector block in the grid box...then onto the Feed L on the grid switch.
4. Connect the L & N from the appliance to the L & N on the Load side of the grid switch.
Each of the appliances will be protected by a 13a fuse in its plug and using 2.5mm twin & earth throughout.

Is this ok or have you a better way?
Thankyou in adavance

 

[sparkticus]

Hi,
I have extended a ring main to a new grid box with 3x20A double pole switches.

Is this ok or have you a better way?
Thankyou in adavance

To be honest, I can't quite understand what you are planning but it sound to me as though you will place an abnormal load on the ring final circuit (what you call a ring main)

Why are you using this grid system? What is the main objective?

 

[JohnW2]

To be honest, I can't quite understand what you are planning but it sound to me as though you will place an abnormal load on the ring final circuit (what you call a ring main)
Why are you using this grid system? What is the main objective?

I may be wrong, but it sounds like the (fairly common) gridswitch arrangement for accessible isolation of under-counter kitchen appliances to me.

Kind Regards, John.

 

[steq184]

Yes for the kitchen appliances to be easily isolated, well actually it is going to be a new ring main just for the kitchen, on this ring main is going to be 4 above cworktop double sockets, i'd guess a kettle, microwave and toaster will be plugged in at most...oh yeah we have a tv too.
Under worktops from a grid via 13a plugs is to a dishwasher, extractor hood and a gas cooker igniter. Another grid via 13a plugs is to a fridge, freezer and wine chiller.

 

[sparkticus]

Yes for the kitchen appliances to be easily isolated, well actually it is going to be a new ring main just for the kitchen, on this ring main is going to be 4 above cworktop double sockets, i'd guess a kettle, microwave and toaster will be plugged in at most...oh yeah we have a tv too.
Under worktops from a grid via 13a plugs is to a dishwasher, extractor hood and a gas cooker igniter. Another grid via 13a plugs is to a fridge, freezer and wine chiller.

OK, now I understand. Why not use two radial circuits (two seperate 2.5mm radials protected by a 20amp MCB) instead of a ring?

One radial for each grid.

 

[SimonH2]

OK, now I understand. Why not use two radial circuits (two seperate 2.5mm radials protected by a 20amp MCB) instead of a ring?

One radial for each grid.

One radial for each grid PLUS some double sockets. And then the user needs to learn what combination of appliances they can use in each group of sockets without tripping the 20A breaker. What's the WAF* for that ?

* Wife Acceptance Factor

 

[Taylortwocities]

Hi,
I have extended a ring main to a new grid box with 3x20A double pole switches.

My idea of connecting are:
1. Connect the earth cable from the incoming ring main to the grids yoke.....then onto the earths of from the appliances.
2. Connect the neutral cable from the incoming ring main into a connector block in the the grid box ....then onto the Feed N on the grid switch.
3. Connect the live from the incoming ring main to a connector block in the grid box...then onto the Feed L on the grid switch.
4. Connect the L & N from the appliance to the L & N on the Load side of the grid switch.
Each of the appliances will be protected by a 13a fuse in its plug and using 2.5mm twin & earth throughout.

Is this ok or have you a better way?
Thankyou in adavance

I do not understand why you are doing 2 & 3. The. Switches are double pole and have terminals for L&N on both the feed and load side. It is a ring, so bring line side of the ring to switch #1, then loop to SW#3 then loop to SW#3 and then the ring leaves the box. Same for neutral.

Ps. Did you apply to LABC BEFORE starting the electrical works in the kitchen?

 

[mfarrow]

What TTC means is put the ring main into switches #1 and #3 and then install jumpers from both of them going into #2 (to retain ring continuity).

Exactly the same for live as it is for neutral.

 

[steq184]

Thankyou for your help....all done now.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Ps. Did you apply to LABC BEFORE starting the electrical works in the kitchen?