Connecting to 3 1/2" asbestos soil pipe??

[steven239]

Hi

I've cut an asbestos soil pipe off at ground level and I'm struggling to find an adaptor to fit the internal diameter which is 3.5 inches/ 89mm. The outside diameter is 4 1/4" (107mm) but as I've cut it so low I would need an adaptor to fit inside. Any ideas, or am I going to have to take the concrete up to get back to the drain?

Cheers

Steve

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

Try this, http://www.mcalpineplumbing.com/waste-pipe-fittings/drain-connectors/drain-connector-black.html

It might just fit in, otherwise you'll have to dig down to the drain and connect there. Personally I'd be going down to the drain and get rid of all the asbestos while your doing the rest, it may be in poor condition underground, and trying to join to it will run the risk of it cracking in the ground anyway.

 

[steven239]

I've actually got a dc1 but even with the fins off it is still fractionally to big. The pipe looks fine and the concrete is tidy so I was hoping that I wouldn't have to disrupt it. If I'd cut it off higher I could have used a load of different connectors on the outside diameter... Whoops, shouldn't have been so trigger happy with the saw!

Anyone else have any ideas to fit into the inside diameter?

Cheers

 

[stardanny]

Best to dig down to clay pipe and connector to there.

Using a connector onto a 89mm existing pipe might reduce the internal bore and cause blockage.

Daniel.

 

[steven239]

Made it fit! I fully appreciate that this is a little cowboy and the best option is to go down to the clay. But if like me you are working on your own place and quite like your concrete and patio, then for those reading this in the future, then this is how I made it fit.

Get a dc1 and bin the fins.
With a hose and all the necessary safety gear, I used a d profile file to take 1-2mm off the inside diameter of the cement asbestos pipe.
Lined up the dc1 and using a piece of timber across the top and a hammer carefully tapped it all the way down (it's very snug so be careful to knock it down evenly to avoid cracking the pipe, this will probably only work when your pipe is surrounded by concrete otherwise it will likely crack).
I reckon this would do the job as it was, even if the pipe backed up as it is very snug, but just to make sure I've siliconed the around the join and put an access cap just above the join.

 

[muggles]

There is, of course, the remaining issue that what you've done won't comply with Building Regulations and may also be notifiable to Building Control (bit of a grey area this, whether it's classed as 'maintenance' or not) but either way I suspect that reducing the diameter of the pipe is going to cause you problems with blocking up in the future...

 

[steven239]

Yeah agreed, probably not strictly kosha but definitely debatable. Plus I've got rid of a load of asbestos that as a kid my mum used to get me to sand down and repaint!! Before she knew obviously! Or so she tells me! So bca have to give me some gold stars for that.

The diameter issue, well it has only been reduced by the same amount as using a dc1 anywhere, so with the rod point right above I should be fine, even after curry night.

 

[Hugh Jaleak]

The DC1 is on the vertical section, and IIRC tapers in slightly to allow for the reduction for the outlet section, so shouldn't be too much of an issue in this situation. I'm not sure about underground use though, a Flexseal or rigid plastic adapter collar would still be preferable IMO to avoid creating a 'lip' in the pipe.