yes of course.
with a Profile you have a hot water cylinder, right?
Heat loss (energy used) is proportional to temperature difference x time
so having a cylinder at 60°C for 24 hours will lose more heat than if it is at 60°C for the eight hours you are at home and awake, and at a lower temperature when you are out. Set the timer so it comes on about half an hour before the first person wants a morning bath or shower, goes off 15 minutes before the last person leaves for work; comes on 15 minutes before the first person comes home, and it goes off after the last person has had their bath or shower at night. If you have a fully pumped system and a modern cylinder, the Netaheat should take it from cold to hot in 20 to 30 minutes. Adjust the cylinder stat so that it is no hotter than you need.
If your HW circuit is not pumped, you can set the stat a bit lower, as the extra heat held in the large iron heat exchanger will rise up after the boiler has gone out.
HOWEVER
it is very important to lag the hot pipes using Climaflex or similar stiff plastic foam tubular lagging, and to insulate the cylinder very well, preferably with factory fitted foam, else with two of those red fibreglass jackets. Insulate the pipes inside the airing cupboard, especially the one that comes out of the top of the cylinder, and any pipes under floorboards and in the loft. Insulate the hot pipes to the bath and sink. You will be surprised how much heat a round fat radiator (cylinder) or a long thin radiator (pipe) can weaste.