Converting a tubular hand rail to a Rad.

[Monsoon]

Thats fine on a standard rad but all Im doing is extending the existing copper pipe in stainless steel. As the pipe fills it will push the air along and I presume back to the combi boiler where it is vented out

never presume anything

combi uses a sealed system

I used to think that (when i was small) but now I know

"3.11.3 Venting
The boiler is fitted with an automatic air vent."

 

[kevplumb]

surely I can just attach my copper pipe to the stainless steel tube then attach the other end of the ss tube to the copper.

what with

"3.11.3 Venting
The boiler is fitted with an automatic air vent."

you have to get the air to the boiler first

You can go from 15mm to 22mm copper without trapping air. Whats the difference?

you ain't going from 15 to 22 more like 76

The connection into the SS tube at either is a good question. Perhaps a theaded hole could be cut?

end plates will be to thin you will need to have a boss welded on

 

[doitall]

Buy the hand rail, weld the brackets on, then weld a socket for the connections.

Piece of cake.

 

[Softus]

...i used to think (when i was small) that hot water cam from the boiler to the first rad, in one pipe out the next and onto the next rad.

if this were true then your idea would work.

Perhaps, but it would still be capable of trapping air.

since the water is at equal pressure on both pipes...

But it isn't.

...the air trapped in your PIPE will just stay there since there is no pressure differnece*

That's not why the air stays** there.

* there is a pressure differnce but its not great enough to move the air

** The air would be capable of staying there even if the pressure difference was a lot greater.

 

[Monsoon]

surely I can just attach my copper pipe to the stainless steel tube then attach the other end of the ss tube to the copper.

what with

A tapping tool to create the female thread in the SS tube. Then a 15mm compression SS coupler. The male end of the fitting screws into the new thread and the other end compressed onto my copper.

Ive never used a tapping tool so I dont know if the wall of the SS tube is too thin to cut a suitable thread (add a collar to thicken it?)

You can go from 15mm to 22mm copper without trapping air. Whats the difference?

you ain't going from 15 to 22 more like 76

It would be 15 to 42.

I dont really see why the larger diameter pipe will not fill up. The end that goes from 42mm to 15mm will create back pressure which will displace the air with water and move the air along.

 

[Softus]

A tapping tool to create the female thread in the SS tube. Then a 15mm compression SS coupler. The male end of the fitting screws into the new thread...

I really don't think so - have you ever attempted to make off a MI fitting onto curved sheet metal?

Ive never used a tapping tool so I dont know if the wall of the SS tube is too thin to cut a suitable thread (add a collar to thicken it?)

This is correct - you don't know.

The end that goes from 42mm to 15mm will create back pressure which will displace the air with water and move the air along.

What in the name of all that's Holy does that sentence mean?

 

[kevplumb]

Ive never used a tapping tool so I dont know if the wall of the SS tube is too thin to cut a suitable thread (add a collar to thicken it?)

the thread is BSP you will be lucky if the end cap will cross the pitch of the thread

as for self venting if you think so carry on

 

[Monsoon]

A tapping tool to create the female thread in the SS tube. Then a 15mm compression SS coupler. The male end of the fitting screws into the new thread...

I really don't think so - have you ever attempted to make off a MI fitting onto curved sheet metal?

Ive never used a tapping tool so I dont know if the wall of the SS tube is too thin to cut a suitable thread (add a collar to thicken it?)

This is correct - you don't know.

Completely pointless asking a question I've already answered in my original suggestion to Kevplumbs question.

Why not say you dont think it's possible to do it that way(others may disagree) but here's the clever bit ...... you then answer kevplumbs question by suggesting a method that *would* work (in your opinion).

The end that goes from 42mm to 15mm will create back pressure which will displace the air with water and move the air along.

What in the name of all that's Holy does that sentence mean?

In this senario we have 15mm - 42mm - 15mm pipe ... why will the 42mm not fill up?

 

[kevplumb]

it will fill up but only to the level at the top of the entry/ exit the rest will be air

 

[Monsoon]

it will fill up but only to the level at the top of the entry/ exit the rest will be air

What if the entry/exit were on the top

 

[Monsoon]

Buy the hand rail, weld the brackets on, then weld a socket for the connections.

Piece of cake.

Like your thinking, Could it be done that simply?

 

[Softus]

This is correct - you don't know.

Completely pointless asking a question I've already answered in my original suggestion to Kevplumbs question.

Well, I quite understand that perhaps you became confused by the sequence of the posts, but I hadn't seen kevplumb's post before submitting mine, as I took a break to boil the kettle halfway through writing it.

Why not say you dont think it's possible to do it that way(others may disagree)

I don't think it's possible, but I was interested to know whether or not this is something you've ever attempted, or whether you're just guessing at an answer.

...but here's the clever bit ...... you then answer kevplumbs question by suggesting a method that *would* work (in your opinion).

You need to practise your sarcasm if you're going to make it effective. Notwithstanding that, I can't see any way in which anyone could genuinely think that I was replying to kevplumb, since I quoted your words in my post.

In this senario we have 15mm - 42mm - 15mm pipe ... why will the 42mm not fill up?

It will fill up, but it will still need venting, both initially and when air occasionally collects inside it.

it will fill up but only to the level at the top of the entry/ exit the rest will be air

What if the entry/exit were on the top

Yeah - that would look just peachy.

 

[Monsoon]

I don't think it's possible, but I was interested to know whether or not this is something you've ever attempted, or whether you're just guessing at an answer. .

To summarize where we are at:

I'm looking for a heated 1800mm towel rail

The stainless steel hand rails are similar in look to my requirement.

To get it heated we need to connect the rail to the central heating circuit

It's basically tube sealed at both ends so if we can get water in/out to create a flow we have our heated tail rail.

The main challenge is getting connectors on either end - welded seems the best option thus far.

Discussions about removing air from the larger diameter pipe if it is connected in series.

 

[doitall]

Buy the hand rail, weld the brackets on, then weld a socket for the connections.

Piece of cake.

Like your thinking, Could it be done that simply?

It is if you can weld, and have the lit

 

[breezer]

...the air trapped in your PIPE will just stay there since there is no pressure differnece*

That's not why the air stays** there.

fogive my ignorance then, but why does it stay there

and yes i did read the ** coment