Cooker connection query

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Hi, Changing the kitchen appliances around and need to check what I need to do and what to ask for if I end up getting a sparky in.

Current setup: Cooker switch wired from separate 32amp breaker at board. Runs into back of isolator switch (with 13amp plug outlet) and then spurred down to a surface mounted 13A TSSO. One socket has the gas hob ignition feed plugged in and the other socket has my fan oven plugged in. The Fan oven is a Stoves SEB600FP and is rated for a 13A fuse. (ratings are Oven=2Kw, Grille= 1.85Kw but you can't have both on at the same time)

I take it that having both supplies on that 13A TSSO is ok as they are protected by their own fuses, which are lower than the 32A breaker.

New setup: I want to retain the Stoves unit mentioned above and add a Bosch HBC84H510B combi oven, which is rated at 16A and 3.6Kw. Both ovens will be mounted in a Wickes tower kitchen unit. The gas hob will be approx 650mm to the left of the oven tower. The isolator switch is midway between the two about 400mm off the worktop surface.
I also need to fit a new gas hob and will still need an ignition feed.
All wiring is in plastic trunking in the garage and enters the kitchen wall behind the units through double skin wall at the appropriate point.

What's the safest way to setup the wiring between the appliances and the isolator switch please?
 
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What is a TSSO? Twin Switched Socket Outlet?

If I understand correctly, you will have to extend the circuit and have a Cooker Outlet.
If there will not be enough room for surface mount you will have to fit flush.
 
a Bosch HBC84H510B combi oven, which is rated at 16A and 3.6Kw
You should not have that on a plug (hint 16amps is bigger than 13amps). It should be hardwired into a cooker connection point.
Keep the existing socket for the existing fan oven, or hardwire that one to the connection point as well. Unless the instructions say that it should be fused at 13amps.


Mind you as you say....
need to check what I need to do and what to ask for if I end up getting a sparky in.
......then, why don't you leave it to the electrician. He will have a van full of stuff to do this job for you!
 
Last edited:
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Yes, tsso = twin switch socket outlet.
I am working out where I need to put holes etc and what jobs I need to sub out. (I'm a project mgr by trade so I get to ask questions why,when and how much in order to scope the works and tell the wife how long we will be without a cooker)
Yes electrician should have van load of stuff whether male or female ;)

I'll leave the existing setup as is and get a sparky to fit an extra CCU into the wall before the plasterers arrive.
Many thanks for the feedback.
 
Many thanks for the link.

And now for a curiosity question. If that goes back to the main breaker at 32A, where does the 16A protection come from if there is nothing in-line?
 
You have not said it requires 16A protection; merely that it draws 16A.

If you use suitable cable for the new oven so that any fault current can withstood then 16A protection is not necessary.
 

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