Cooker hood bulbs

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Hi, This may sound life a daft question, but i'll ask it anyway.

My cooker hood bulb has blown & i'd like to know if I can replace it with a normal 'candle' type bulb (40w, small screw fitting) ?

Or do I have to use a more expensive cooker hood bulb (ie the small pygmy ones) - what makes these so special ?

Thanks.
 
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A standard bulb may not physical fit, if it fits & is the same wattage, use it
 
Standard bulb may not last long as these bulb operates in an environment with higher than ambient temperatures.

I would replace like for like - there is a reason why they use them.
 
The standard bulb does fit ok, I just wondered if the proper 'cooker hood' bulbs were special in any way - like the resistance to extreme temps or some other factors.
 
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miffy93 said:
Hi, This may sound life a daft question, but i'll ask it anyway.

My cooker hood bulb has blown & i'd like to know if I can replace it with a normal 'candle' type bulb (40w, small screw fitting) ?

Or do I have to use a more expensive cooker hood bulb (ie the small pygmy ones) - what makes these so special ?

Thanks.

Think about glass in food.

Some bulbs are designed with that thought in mind.
 
I use SES candle bulbs, they last OK. I don't believe a cooker hood with a fan gets as hot as an ordinary enclosed luminaire.
 
Thanks for all the points, I have a few comments though.

The cooker hood fan rarely gets used, we mainly use the built in light as the cooker is in a corner - so the rising heat would make it quite hot.

Regarding glass & food the bulbs are behind plastic lenses - if this makes a difference.

I just wondered if a normal bulb would suffice (to stand the heat etc) or whether to pay the extra bit & go for a proper cooker hood bulb.
 
I have used a 7 watt energy saver before. It was brighter compared to the standard 40w bulb. Still there, IIRC.
 
I use candle lamps in mine too, and they seem to have a decent lifespan, considering the heat and vibration.

Using CFLs is a superb idea. I think I will convert when I exhaust my current supply of candle lamps.
 
sorry to bump this thread after such a long time, I was wondering the same thing as the OP.

looking at the specs for proper hood bulbs, they seem to have internal fuses.

Hoods tend to be large lumps of metal. If the glass on a standard bulb blew, I guess that it is possible that the filament could touch the metal?

For the sake of a couple of quid, I am gonna buy the dedicated bulbs.
 
Hoods tend to be large lumps of metal. If the glass on a standard bulb blew, I guess that it is possible that the filament could touch the metal?
You worry too much….
You could say the same about many millions of light fittings that are in use all over the UK. Never seen a report of what you describe.
It is only remotely possible, but that would cause the circuit fuse to blow, that is why we earth large lumps of metal.
 
Hoods tend to be large lumps of metal. If the glass on a standard bulb blew, I guess that it is possible that the filament could touch the metal?
You worry too much….
You could say the same about many millions of light fittings that are in use all over the UK. Never seen a report of what you describe.
It is only remotely possible, but that would cause the circuit fuse to blow, that is why we earth large lumps of metal.

perhaps but it is my client's hood. The two bulbs from toolstation will total about a fiver.

I have no way knowing if things have been earthed correctly or not. So I am paying very little for piece of mind.

on a side note. I spoke to a friend who is an electrician a while back. I mentioned that I was replacing my halogen LV lights with halogen GU10s. He commented on the fact that book 17 doesn't insist on the light fittings being earthed, even though in theory they should be
 
I have no way knowing if things have been earthed correctly or not.
Then you should not be working on it.

on a side note.
Not a side note - fundamental.

I spoke to a friend who is an electrician a while back. I mentioned that I was replacing my halogen LV lights with halogen GU10s. He commented on the fact that book 17 doesn't insist on the light fittings being earthed, even though in theory they should be
He's talking about the circuit (as in the past) but if your light fittings require earthing they must be and therefore must not be connected to such a circuit.
 

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