Cooker / oven/ microwave installation.

[dale_moseley19]

Hi all,

Looking for some advice on cooker / oven installation.

I have removed an existing hob and oven and plan on installing hob back almost in same position, so will use the same 60amp supply with isolation switch with cooker connector.

However I am fitting an oven and microwave (separates in tower) in another area on another wall approx 3m away but I don't have a supply.

First question - do I need a 60amp supply to the oven and micro?

Second question - if I do can I cut a junction box in into the ceiling and take a 10mm cable to the oven location? I will have an isolator here again and then go to a cooker connector socket

Any help is appreciated, I plan on only doing the first fix, but I'm waiting for my sparky to come and look, but I need to plan what I'm doing.

 

[sparkwright]

Firstly, is the current cooker supply really 60 amp? What size cable is it? (Your mention of 10mm springs to mind, but we need to ask.)

What size fuse or circuit breaker serves the current cooker supply?

How many W or kW is the new oven?
How many W or kW is the new microwave?
And, to be sure, how many W or kW is the new hob?

Is it really hard to get a new supply from the consumer unit to the new oven and microwave position?

Is the floor suspended or solid?

 

[dale_moseley19]

Firstly, is the current cooker supply really 60 amp? What size cable is it? (Your mention of 10mm springs to mind, but we need to ask.) - cable size is defo 10mm, think I'm wrong on 60amp though

What size fuse or circuit breaker serves the current cooker supply? B32 30ma is the current breaker

How many W or kW is the new oven? 3.65kw
How many W or kW is the new microwave? 3600watt 16 amp
And, to be sure, how many W or kW is the new hob? It's an induction and it is 2.9kw

Is it really hard to get a new supply from the consumer unit to the new oven and microwave position? Yes furthest possible location away

Is the floor suspended or solid? Suspended - will drill through joints to get between them

Hope the above helps

 

[sparkwright]

How sure are you that the cable is 10mm2? You realise 10mm2 refers to the cross sectional area of the L and N conductors - not the width of the cable itself?

If the kitchen is downstairs, generally not recommended to drill the joists if the cable can be laid below them.

Best confirm the cable size first.

Sounds like hob could go on the socket circuit if too many appliances on cooker circuit.

I'm sure someone here will work out the cable calculations including diversity...

 

[dale_moseley19]

Oh right, I was thinking could be the other way around and oven could go on normal circuit, but defo not cooker.

Looked into the cable and it is a 6mm cable that I bought not 10mm (should have known this really)

Thinking I could junction box with a 30amp box to split the supply or would it be better to create a circuit? In and out of the first isolator? Only issues is not much room on the switch for 2 6mm cables to be wired in

No room to go below joists as boarded onto joists and the house has been built with holes thru joists for all cables and pipe.

To give a little back ground I am a civil engineer with some structural knowledge so have quite a knowledge of construction and can do most things, but thought I'd take advice on electrics.

 

[sparkwright]

If the cable you have bought is 6mm2, what size is the existing cooker cable?

 

[dale_moseley19]

Sorry forgot that bit!!! It's all 6mm cable, house is 1997 so wiring isn't old

 

[EFLImpudence]

So, you have a 'usual' 30/32A 6mm² cooker circuit - this will be adequate for your three appliances.
4mm² cable would be sufficient.

What is the location of the present outlet and the new?
Can you run a cable between them behind units or another hidden route?

 

[dale_moseley19]

That's a pretty good idea, I will have counter level cabinets on all that wall.

So I leave the 6mm cable on the supply side of the isolator, take 2 no 4mm cables from the isolater load side, 1 to hob and 1 to oven/ micro (as these go in opposite directions from isolator) and install a fixed termination in both locations then wire the appliances in?

I drop the 4mm cables down the wall (in buried trunking) bring them out the wall below counter level and run inside of my units to both locations and have the terminals surface mounted inside the cabinets?

Does that sound like what I should do?