Hi, just joined and so much info on here! Moved into a 30's house, the cooker point is directly above the cooker, not ideal. Iwant to leave or replace the cooker (elec) in the same position. My question/s, can i move the point (double switch with socket outlet) to one side without a subsequent inspection. Is it feasable to spur off the back for a cooker hood supply point ideally channelled into the wall. Thanks in advance.
Cooker point
- Thread starter Bananaman69
- Start date
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Yes but you must be aware that cables can only be concealed in runs that are horizontally or vertically from accessories so you should not 'hide' the present position if that means they no longer are.
A blank plate would do if that is acceptable.
Yes. I think it is a good idea so that in an emergency everything can be switched off at once.
Welcome!
No, if the cable will be channelled into the wall and covered over.
You need to get into the ceiling void and re-route the cooker cable vertically down the wall to the new switch position.
It is feasible, but it depends on
1. What wiring is already in the feed side of the existing hood supply point.
2. What is the spur going to power? Under-cupboard lights, induction hob, engine hoist, ???
No, if the cable will be channelled into the wall and covered over.
You need to get into the ceiling void and re-route the cooker cable vertically down the wall to the new switch position.
It is feasible, but it depends on
1. What wiring is already in the feed side of the existing hood supply point.
2. What is the spur going to power? Under-cupboard lights, induction hob, engine hoist, ???
2. What is the spur going to power? Under-cupboard lights, induction hob, engine hoist, ???
Reminds me of the time my Mom went ape at me when she arrived home. I'd dismantled my motorbike in the kitchen!
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Thanks for reply. Think you mis-read or maybe i wasnt clear. I was intending to re-route cooker point supply to a suitable position via the cavity , not channelled.
2nd question was can i spur off the back of the cooker socket and channel it to a position where i can plug in a cooker hood. Mind you, as i have a 150mm hole for ducting i could prob use cavity for this as well if feasable.
Thanks.
I do have an engine hoist but its manual
2nd question was can i spur off the back of the cooker socket and channel it to a position where i can plug in a cooker hood. Mind you, as i have a 150mm hole for ducting i could prob use cavity for this as well if feasable.
Thanks.
I do have an engine hoist but its manual
Cables do not go in cavities.
Cavity wall insulation goes in there.
Also, foreign items (like cables) can bridge the cavity and cause damp.
The cooker circuit is dedicated to the cooker. Practically, how would you plan engineer a spur from that? It would have to be run in the same csa cable as the cooker circuit. 6mm² or 10mm².
Alternatively - you could run a (fused) spur from a ring final, or power the cooker hood from a lighting circuit.
Cavity wall insulation goes in there.
Also, foreign items (like cables) can bridge the cavity and cause damp.
The cooker circuit is dedicated to the cooker. Practically, how would you plan engineer a spur from that? It would have to be run in the same csa cable as the cooker circuit. 6mm² or 10mm².
Alternatively - you could run a (fused) spur from a ring final, or power the cooker hood from a lighting circuit.
No it isn't.
Simples. FCU next to cooker switch or -
433.3
I think it's a good idea. It saves sucking a chip fan fire through the hood while panicking to find the second switch.
Ok, the plot thickens Having released the recessed cooker point (it has to be moved) the cable runs the wrong way to re-position as it will be too short. Its either ceiling down or boards up above which is boxed and tiled where i need to look. Am i right in thinking i read somewhere on here that the cable cannot be extended? Not talking about connecter blocks, junction box etc but making a solid joint, soldering etc....I realise i'm into a qualified leccy now but would like your input/experience problem solving and also not to be ripped off. Oh, and i counted 4 cables in the cavity just at that point Thanks for your inputs.
Having released the recessed cooker point (it has to be moved) the cable runs the wrong way to re-position as it will be too short. Its either ceiling down or boards up above which is boxed and tiled where i need to look. Am i right in thinking i read somewhere on here that the cable cannot be extended? Not talking about connecter blocks, junction box etc but making a solid joint, soldering etc....I realise i'm into a qualified leccy now but would like your input/experience problem solving and also not to be ripped off. Oh, and i counted 4 cables in the cavity just at that point Thanks for your inputs.The cable cores could be crimped to lengthen them, and then heat shrunk. It its loose behind the kitchen units and so visible when you look behind, that's acceptable.
I think you could do that yourself, as its just extending a single cable....
I think you could do that yourself, as its just extending a single cable....
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