Cooker socket help

[Mbro123]

I've seen a few of these on here but thought I'd double check...I've changed the cooker socket on the kitchen wall for a new one, but the new one doesn't have a neon. Now I've swapped the wires like for like cooker into load and mains into feed (well I think I have) but the cooker remains constantly on even when I switch the switch to off...have I got feed and load the wrong way round??

 

[EFLImpudence]

but the cooker remains constantly on even when I switch the switch to off...have I got feed and load the wrong way round??

It would make no difference.

The only way the oven would stay on is if you put the feed and load in the same terminals - or
the switch is faulty.

 

[Mbro123]

but the cooker remains constantly on even when I switch the switch to off...have I got feed and load the wrong way round??

It would make no difference.

The only way the oven would stay on is if you put the feed and load in the same terminals - or
the switch is faulty.

I have one wire in each connector a live and neutral in the feed and a live and neutral in the load

 

[EFLImpudence]

Please explain.

 

[Mbro123]

Please explain.

What do you need me to explain...there's two live wires and two neutral a live and a neutral for feed (both individual connector) and a live and neutral for the load (again both individual connectors) there's one wire in each

 

[EFLImpudence]

I have one wire in each connector a live and neutral in the feed and a live and neutral in the load

Then the switch is not opening when you move it to the off position.

You can see from the diagram that it would not matter.

 

[EFLImpudence]

My question of 'please explain' was to the 'electrician' of twenty years.


Edit - who seems to have disappeared.

 

[Mbro123]

Ok, so say if I do swap them over your saying it won't make a difference...will I blow up-or will it just be the same as it is now?

 

[EFLImpudence]

Ok, so say if I do swap them over your saying it won't make a difference...

No, it won't.

will I blow up-or will it just be the same as it is now?

You won't blow up and it will be the same.

As long as you have Ls to Ls and Ns to Ns it will be ok,

 

[Taylortwocities]

Please provide a photo of the wiring that you have done at the rear of the cooker switch.

Turn power off before removing the front plate.

 

[Mbro123]

I haven't touched the switch at the back of the cooker, it's just the socket above

 

[riveralt]

I haven't touched the switch at the back of the cooker, it's just the socket above

It is difficult to understand what you are talking about.

Is you socket/switch like this?
http://www.screwfix.com/p/marbo-45a-sw-13a-skt/74210
This is a dual pole cooker isolation switch with socket.
If it is and you have wired it correctly and it stays on even when switched off means:
The switch is broken/stuck and stuck in the on position. Sometimes these switches do stick so flip it on and off a number of times.
Or your cables in the backbox are pushing too tight against the rear of the cooker switch which is stopping the switch from opening.
Or you have wired both load and supply cables into the supply terminals therefore bypassing the switch.

 

[JohnD]

...I've changed the cooker socket on the kitchen wall for a new one...

Cookers don't usually have sockets. Do you mean a socket that a 3-pin-plug goes into?

It would be really really useful to see a a picture of what you've done
//www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=129539

 

[plugwash]

Cookers don't usually have sockets. Do you mean a socket that a 3-pin-plug goes into?

From his descriptions i'm pretty sure that by "cooker socket" he means what we would call a "cooker control unit", that is a big switch that is usually but not nessacerally accompanied by a socket.