Cooker switch above gas cooker

[Ambergreen45]

Hi,

I'm having a new gas cooker installed, replacing the old gas cooker. I've got a 2 gang cooker switch and plug socket, along with a 5 amp switched FCU (for the extractor fan) located 450mm on the back wall above the cooker and if I've read it correctly, that's no longer allowed (?). I will not plug the gas cooker in that socket but will use an extension lead coming from a different wall socket. All I need is to be able to switch on and off the extractor fan.

If it has to be moved, one problem is I've got a window immediately on the left and since the gas cooker will be standing in a corner, an adjacent wall on the right; so the new socket/switch would have to be quite a distance from the original surface patress box. My question is, is it a job I can do myself or doesl it have to be done by a pro? The location would be quite far away from the kitchen sink.

Thank you.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Sounds like a job for a sparky, as the circuit may need moving. That may need a compliant joint somewhere.

Can you post a photo of the area? Someone may have a smart idea.

 

[winston1]

Hi,

I'm having a new gas cooker installed, replacing the old gas cooker. I've got a 2 gang cooker switch and plug socket, along with a 5 amp switched FCU (for the extractor fan) located 450mm on the back wall above the cooker and if I've read it correctly, that's no longer allowed (?). I will not plug the gas cooker in that socket but will use an extension lead coming from a different wall socket. All I need is to be able to switch on and off the extractor fan.


Thank you.

The regulations are not retrospective. If it was allowed when it was put in you don't have to do anything.

 

[JohnW2]

The regulations are not retrospective. If it was allowed when it was put in you don't have to do anything.

I'm not certain, but I'm far from convinced that there is/was any regulation which explicitly addresses this specific issue either now or 'then'. If that's the case, then it's probably a matter of discretion/interpretation - again, both then and now.

Kind Regards, John

 

[ban-all-sheds]

The regulations are not retrospective. If it was allowed when it was put in you don't have to do anything.

Bare conductors used to be allowed.

Would you tell someone who still had them that as they were OK 130 years ago they don't need anything done to them?

 

[winston1]

The regulations are not retrospective. If it was allowed when it was put in you don't have to do anything.

Bare conductors used to be allowed.

Would you tell someone who still had them that as they were OK 130 years ago they don't need anything done to them?

You still get bare conductors with some 12 v halogen installations.

And ever seen a railway line with that 600v DC bare conductor running along the side?

 

[Taylortwocities]

Do not get sidetracked from the question.

Hi,

I'm having a new gas cooker installed, replacing the old gas cooker.

Installers will not site a gas cooker under an existing cooker switch. Period. It will need to be moved.

Please take your skirmish elsewhere.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

You still get bare conductors with some 12 v halogen installations.

And ever seen a railway line with that 600v DC bare conductor running along the side?

FGS, are you determined to be a complete

all the time?

 

[Ambergreen45]

I've contacted a couple of installers, one said it had to be moved, the other one said he would need to have a look but could only do it in a couple of weeks time...

It looks like the reason behind it, is if a pan was on fire on an electric cooker, it would be difficult to switch off the Cooker Control Switch above a cooker; but I'm using a gas cooker and will not use that socket for the plug (oven light and ignition only). I'm swapping like for like, business as usual. Same thing with replacing the extractor fan, like for like. But if the problem is heat, I have always used a pull cord above the cooker for the old extractor fan wich was connected to the switched FCU. But then again, people still have to lean over slightly to reach their back burner when the spuds are boiling...

The only position I can think of is on the right hand side and some distance from the cooker (pic 3), because one does not really want a socket rubbbing against their shoulder once cooking.

The walls are in solid brick and internal render. There is a vertical metal conduit underneath the socket where the mains are connected directly to the consumer unit and has a front opening showing the cable coming out. The conduit is slightly embedded into the brick and rendered over 14mm of render/plaster (that's how it was built in the 50's). It's quite awkward to move the socket because I've got very hard walls and might have to create a chase for several meters if a new cable were to be connected to the old socket. A plastic blank plate could then replace the old socket, however that would still protrude by 40mm. But if the length of the new cable could be reduced by running horizontally and at the same height as the original old socket, would that part of the wall be considered within the 'safe zone' (area in pic 3)? Since there aren't too many sockets nearby, the other option might be for an electrician to fit a new 5 amp switched FCU in a back corner, coming directly from the Consumer Unit, but then I would be left with substantial trunking showing on the corners of the wall and ceiling.

I would appreciate any further thoughts.

Thanks again.

Untitled

• Ambergreen45
• 12 Sep 2014
• 1

Untitled

• Ambergreen45
• 12 Sep 2014
• 1

Untitled

• Ambergreen45
• 12 Sep 2014
• 1

 

[ban-all-sheds]

There's no way that socket could ever be safely used unless you put hooks in the wall to hold flex away from the burners.

And there's no reason why the fan and cooker couldn't be on the same switch.

I'd be tempted to remove everything that's above the cooker, put an outlet plate behind it for its connection, and put a SFCU inside the window reveal. Or on the RH wall

 

[jj4091]

Some free standing cookers have a fold up/down lid over the burners, which would probably cover that switch when in use. If yours is that type then you would be ok.

 

[Ambergreen45]

Like the previous one, the new gas cooker I just bought does not have a lid. Still wearing my thinking cap on.

 

[Ambergreen45]

There's no way that socket could ever be safely used unless you put hooks in the wall to hold flex away from the burners.

There will be no flex connected to the socket, so no flex coming from behind and above the cooker. The flex from the gas cooker will be plugged in to an extension lead on the right hand side of the cooker near the floor and coming from a different wall socket with an RCD adaptor, just to provide light to the oven and gas ignition.

But originally I was thinking maybe I could put a metal flat plate as a heat protector on two small metal hooks just enough to protect the 2 gang socket & FCU from the heat if that was to be an issue, even though I’ve never had any problems before and the socket is intact in and out. That’s why I started to drill some holes last week … until I’ve heard no wood, wall cupboards, sockets, wallpaper or flammables above or too near a cooker. I’m very concerned about safety but I’m still not sure if it’s a strict rule or if a bit of common sense might be allowed in…

And there's no reason why the fan and cooker couldn't be on the same switch.

I was going to replace the FCU to a switched FCU since I only need a switch for the extractor fan, I do not need to use the socket.

I'd be tempted to remove everything that's above the cooker, put an outlet plate behind it for its connection, and put a SFCU inside the window reveal. Or on the RH wall

Good idea for the window reveal, but I need to be able to pull down the blinds.

Thanks for your advice.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

There will be no flex connected to the socket, so no flex coming from behind and above the cooker.

So why have it there?

Good idea for the window reveal, but I need to be able to pull down the blinds.

Surely there's enough clearance for a low-profile switch?

 

[Ambergreen45]

If I were to transfer the socket to the RH side on the adjacent wall and create a horizontal chase in the plaster at the same height as the original socket, ie about 1300mm from the floor, would that be in the 'safe wall zone'? If not, it would have the create the chase in the hard wall up to the ceiling, across it, and down again.

Another idea I came across is to move the cooker in the middle of the adjacent wall and get some kitchen units on both sides. By doing that I could leave the socket where it is, but my question is could I replace the all powerful cooker switch/socket by a 2 gang ordinary socket outright?

Thanks again.