Cooker wiring

[danrhope]

Hi all
I'm fiitting a new kitchen and thought I'd take the opportunity to move the cooker socket into a more practical position in the process.

Currently the cooker is wired to a plug which is plugged into the socket of a Cooker Control Unit. I have read that ideally the cooker should be wired to a Terminal Outlet Box which then goes to the Cooker Control Unit. Please see the diagram - this shows the wiring how it is now and what I propose to do. Is this correct?

Also, as you'll see from the diagram, there is another socket on the same circuit. However the new Control Unit I have only has supply in and cooker terminals...is it still possible to continue this circuit to the other socket?

Thanks for your time

Dan Hope

 

[ColJack]

nope, not correct..

the cooker will not ( or at least should not ) be on a ring main..

it should be on it's own 6mm² or 10mm² radial on asuitably sized breaker or fuse.

there also should not be any extra sockets on a cooker circuit.. ( one on the cooker switch is allowed as long as it's accounted for in the calculations )

 

[danrhope]

Thanks for the reply ColJack.

I was assuming it was a ring but it is probably, as you say, a radial - I'll investigate some more. It is 10mm though.

The socket is definitely on the same line - the fuse for the oven cuts the socket too. It's not a wholly electric oven, a gas oven with electric grill. The second socket is a 2GANG double pole.

Assuming it's not a ring, is it possible for me to connect the terminal outlet box in the same way as in the diagram?

 

[Taylortwocities]

Thanks for the reply ColJack.

I was assuming it was a ring but it is probably, as you say, a radial - I'll investigate some more. It is 10mm though.

How are you measuring that 10mm²? It refers to the cross sectional area of the copper conductor, not the width of the cable sheath.

 

[ColJack]

can you be more specific on what your definition of a "cooker" is?

you say it's a gas oven with electric grill? what about the hob?

and assuming the circuit is right, then yes you can put a cooker outlet plate off the load side of the switch..

please read up in the WIKI about part p, and about safe zones..

 

[danrhope]

Hello

THe hob is gas too. Just the grill is electric with the following information:

Grill kW. 1,8
V-240Hz-50 Amp.Max. 7,5

 

[danrhope]

So would it be acceptable to wire the Cooker Control Unit like this:

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Oven = heated box where cakes and pies can be cooked.
Hob = flat horizontal item at worktop height where several pans can be heated.
Cooker = all in one unit with hob on top and oven underneath.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

So would it be acceptable to wire the Cooker Control Unit like this:

Don't know - the image doesn't display.

 

[danrhope]

Sorry about that - well spotted!

 

[danrhope]

should be there now

 

[ban-all-sheds]

So would it be acceptable to wire the Cooker Control Unit like this:

I doubt that the CCU is designed to have 2 cables in the supply terminals.

Use a twin outlet plate and connect the socket for the oven to one set of terminals.

 

[ColJack]

it's not a socket for the oven, it's a seperate double socket above the counter... or at least that's how I read it..

 

[Steve]

HIS APPLIANCE CAN BE CONNECTED TO A 13 AMP PLUG!

Caps intentional to stand out.

The appliance is rated at 1.8kw, 7.5 amps.

Whatever the CCU is connected to, replace it with a double socket outlet. You can spur off this to a single socket to plug your cooker into. This should be accessible for isolation, if not, supply it via a 20 amp switch.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

Whatever the CCU is connected to, replace it with a double socket outlet. You can spur off this to a single socket to plug your cooker into.

If you've replaced the outlet plate with a socket, why not plug the cooker into that?

This should be accessible for isolation, if not, supply it via a 20 amp switch.

The CCU will isolate it.