seperate hob and cooker on existing circuit/cooker control

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in the process of installing a above in sons flat

basically a freestanding cooker used to be hardwired to a control unit ( this unit has socket) wire to cooker control unit is in 10mm

can i hard wire the hob 2.5 mm cable to this and use socket to fit cooker
 
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this question has been posted and replied to many times , several of which within the last week.. please use the search function to prevent us having to type the same replies again..


in fact you don't even need to use the search function.. see at the bottom where it says similar topics?
 
then you really shouldn't be wiring heavy current pieces of equipment into your sons flat should you?

if it was a gas cooker you'd get a gas fitter in.. so get a part P registered sparky in to fit it for you.. ..

what's part P you ask?

it's the law where you must inform your LABC to do certain electrical work in certain areas of your home..
or use a part-P registered electrician who will do the informing for you..
 
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im new at posting questions etc on this site......i am aware of part p

i was using this site just to ask some DIY general questions and thought i might have got some general comments as to if it is appropiate to do what i asked before things go to far regarding installation of units etc...

do apologise for misreading the purpose of this site and by the tone of your answer/comments ( about as much use as a chocolate tea pot ) you have summed up what type of people use this and as i have a life i think i give it a miss.......

what a muppet
 
We all have off days. Yes you can connect to the cooker unit with the hob, but what load will the oven require? does it come with a flex and plug attached?
 
thanks for a more helpful answer/comments than that muppet..

yes it has a flex and a plug....its only a cheap indesit one not sure what the load is but can be run of ring apparantely

understand most electrician's dont like socket outlets on cooker control units but just wonder if it is possible to run both...

also hob states that only 2.5mm wire is required....if it goes into a 45amp cooker control unit would it have to be same as main supply wire 6 or 10 mm
 
Coljack, just cos your having an "off day" don't take it out on a new member who has posted a perfectly reasonable question well in line with what this forum is here for. If the question iirritatesyou then simply don't reply and let other members respond.

Andy has posted a perfectly reasonable question, yes similar topics have come up lately but they may not be specific to his situation. Andy if you want to post back with some more information such as rating of appliances, the mcb that protects the cooker circuit etc. I'm sure we can offer you some useful advice.

All the best
Dan
 
Andy, if you dont like plugs on show get a QUALIFIED sparks to run a cable down to a socket behind the unit, then plug into this.
 
many thanks wingcoax and dannyboi2003...you renewed my faith....glad some people appreciate that we aren't all experts at every field ...i thought the use of this site was not to be told the obvious ( get an expert, get a qualified person,) quite agree that has to be said sometimes, but is it not a forum to increase everyones knowledge and where to apply it safely.....if we new every answer to every trade we,d all be clever and brillant like that muppet

anyhow you might have saved the shortest membership to this site...

i will double check current configuration of circuit/protection etc.....im asking these question prior to my visit to the flat

my understanding is the existing consumer unit is not of modern design , definetly not a 6 or 11 way dual phased and on the rcd side nor protected by RCBO on a single phased board....it would appear its a seperate consumer unit protected by a seperate rcd.....

blimey im getting above my station now...i leave it at that.

theres my limited knowledge all used up in one go......however dont know if you missed it but what about the hardwiring to the control unit from hob.....should it be of same thickness as main wire ...or should there be a 30 amp spur between the two if 2.5mm used ..
 
Hi Andy,

We really need to know the rating of the existing circuit and the maximum demand of each appliance in order to give you the best correct advice. If both can be run from a standard plugtop you should be able to just change the cooker outlet plate below the worktop for a double socket and plug each into this. That way you have no cables on show and would use the existing cooker isolation switch for both. But as i said we really need to know the ratings to confirm if you can do this or not.

All the best
Dan
 
cheers Dan...appreciate your help....i get back to you tomorrow if that ok....i have all info ..

cheers

andy s
 
well excuuuuuseee me!...

you didn't post any relavent information so rather that go back and forth trying to extract it from you ( which the above "helpfull" posters still havent been able to do ), I tought you may find one or more of the several dozen or so almost identical recent posts more usefull..

you then said that "you're new to this", without quantifying what "this" is, I made the assumption you meant electrical work, so I advised that it probably best in that situation to get a professional in.. ( which wingcoax did and you thanked him for.. )

I also from that assumed that you may not have knowledge of what part P was so I tried to sum it up for you..
 

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