cooker

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Hi all
I am fitting out a new kitchen,
Just a quick one, i am fitting a integrated oven with grill
And a 4 ring fitted hob
I have a 30amp supply that goes to a free standing cooker just now, but when i fit the new cooker and hob
How does this 2 get wired up
Does the integrated over get the 30amp supply and then supply the hob with a 13amp fused switch?
Thank you for your help
 
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Hi
Not got them yet, the ones i have seen
Oven is 20Amps
Hob works out about 30Amps
So that will mean they will have to be tied together
So maybe this is wrong but supply to a junction box via 45amp DP switch then split to oven and hob
Or is there any way or do i have to have two different supplies
J
 
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The kW of each cooking appliance would be more helpful if possible.

Why would it be more helpful?

Because the 20A and 30A stated may be suggested mcb/fuse ratings by the manufacurer

They may acually pull 16A and 26A in reality

If you had the Kw and voltage rating of both
then you would know exactly how many amps they are going to draw

Matt
 
The kW of each cooking appliance would be more helpful if possible.

Why would it be more helpful?

Because the 20A and 30A stated may be suggested mcb/fuse ratings by the manufacurer

They may acually pull 16A and 26A in reality

If you had the Kw and voltage rating of both
then you would know exactly how many amps they are going to draw

Matt

Oven is 20Amps
Hob works out about 30Amps

As long as there are no manufacturers instructions to the contrary.

You need one of these
View media item 26859job done.

Holmslaw I think you have missed my point mate
 
If you had the Kw and voltage rating of both
then you would know exactly how many amps they are going to draw

Matt

No you would'nt, cos the big red bumper book of fun requires that we use an almost non existant voltage figure of 230V for such a calculation, which in turn gives an incorrect amperage.

If the op says the load is 20A + 30A, thats good enough for me and I believe him, but you seem to assume he is wrong.

Why is that?

No I don't assume he's wrong, you asked a question and I answered it
The kW of each cooking appliance would be more helpful if possible.

Why would it be more helpful?
and you may have edited your post but you have still missed my point

but since you seem to be in argumentative mode
I have a 30amp supply that goes to a free standing cooker just now, but when i fit the new cooker and hob
How does this 2 get wired up
So maybe this is wrong but supply to a junction box via 45amp DP switch then split to oven and hob
Or is there any way or do i have to have two different supplies

If the op says the load is 20A + 30A, thats good enough for me and I believe him,

As long as there are no manufacturers instructions to the contrary.

You need one of these
View media item 26859job done.
when I went to school 30A + 20A = 50A
you seem to think everything will be ok on a 30A circuit Via a 45A switch
Why is that?
 
The diversity calc for a cooker is 10A + 30% of the remainder (40) + 5A = circuit load, so we have 10 + 12 + 5 = 27Amps, easy when you know how.
Hmmm. Simple arithmetic 'when you know how' - but what about 'when you know when' (when such a calculation is appropriate/acceptable)?

Diversity is all very well in relation to sizing of conductors and protective devices, since curerents which moderately exceed the calculated figues for short periods will not do harm. However, is it really acceptable to invoke the concept of diversity to enable one to use a switch which is rated less than the actual current it may have to switch (a 45A switch switching 50A in the example we're considering). I would have hoped not - but have I missed something in the regs which says this is acceptable?

Kind Regards, John.
 

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