Correct wire spec for pipe stats?

[PeedOftec]

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What wire spec should I be using for wiring up a high and low pipe stat on a hot water tank?

Do I need heat proof wire?

Guess it needs to be flex?

Amperage?

Colours?
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[Goldberg]

What wire spec should I be using for wiring up a high and low pipe stat on a hot water tank?

What does the thermostat manufacturer say about it?

Do I need heat proof wire?

No, you need heat-resistant sheathing.

Guess it needs to be flex?

Yes.

Amperage?

You will need some Amps.

Colours?

Are you saying that you have a choice of colour of conductor insulation?

 

[PeedOftec]

Wire spec.... The manufacturer of the stats says nowt about the wiring either on the box or in the instructions, hence my request for info here.

Colours..... Looks like I need four cores to the stats according to the wiring diagram... ???

Ok.... just sorted it, found a reference to hi-lo stats on another website...

Keys pointers I needed....

"Heat resistant PVC insulated flexible mains cable"
"power input via a 3 amp fused plug"
".5mm Heat resistant 3 core"

Thanks for your input.
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[Goldberg]

Wire spec.... The manufacturer of the stats says nowt about the wiring either on the box or in the instructions, hence my request for info here.

Apologies - I should have been more specific. I meant to ask what the maximum currrent rating of the thermostat is. It will usually be 3 Amps.

Colours..... Looks like I need four cores to the stats according to the wiring diagram... ?

Then you have a choice:

1. You can go to a supplier and buy flex to the current colour coding standard.

2. You can find the old colour coded flex and use that.

.. whichever is the safer option. Safeness is determined by the risk of someone else becoming confused by the colours that you use. If the rest of your house is in one set of colours, then using a different set requires that you place a warning label in a prominent place, like on the consumer unit and on the heating wiring centre (often in the airing cupboard).

 

[PeedOftec]

Wire spec.... The manufacturer of the stats says nowt about the wiring either on the box or in the instructions, hence my request for info here.

Apologies - I should have been more specific. I meant to ask what the maximum currrent rating of the thermostat is. It will usually be 3 Amps.

Colours..... Looks like I need four cores to the stats according to the wiring diagram... ?

Then you have a choice:

1. You can go to a supplier and buy flex to the current colour coding standard.

2. You can find the old colour coded flex and use that.

.. whichever is the safer option. Safeness is determined by the risk of someone else becoming confused by the colours that you use. If the rest of your house is in one set of colours, then using a different set requires that you place a warning label in a prominent place, like on the consumer unit and on the heating wiring centre (often in the airing cupboard).

Ok, cheers for that. The house is now all new colours so best to use all new colours for any new wiring...

It does give an amperage on the stats, yes, and there will be an amperage on the CH pump it is controlling I guess. Should have been able to work it out from that myself TBH...

I'm having to finish off the plumbers job here (or the plumbers' electrician mate) with the stats...
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[holmslaw]

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[ColJack]

high stat to turn the pump off, low stat to turn it on..?

 

[londonboy]

You can also use low limit pipestats/room stats for frost protection

 

[PeedOftec]

high stat to turn the pump off, low stat to turn it on..?

1 A high temperature Pipe Thermostat.
This is clamped on to the main 28mm gravity flow water pipe and switches the pump on when the boilers/pipe
temperature rises. It should be set at between 85oC and 95oC and thus ensures that the copper Cylinder hot water
does not boil but is dissipated safely around the radiator circuit.
2 A low temperature Pipe Thermostat.
This is clamped on to the main 28mm return pipe and should be set at between 45oC and 55oC and thus switches
the pump off (even if a timeclock calls for the pump to be on) when the temperature of the water returning from the system/hot water copper Cylinder to the
boilers begins to fall. It ensures that cold water does not circulate through the stove boilers and the circuit as
this would:-
a. Allow the heating circuit to rob the heat from the hot water copper Cylinder
b. Cause acid condensation to form on the boilers inside the stove and them to fail early
c. Create a cold flue/chimney and the associated condensation/tar problems
The objective is to have a continuous circuit of warm-hot water circulating from the boilers in the stove to the
copper cylinder and when the pump is on, continuing this around the radiators. Therefore the stove must be run at
a sufficiently hot temperature to sustain this.
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[bernardgreen]

When installing the cable avoid having loops of loose cable which people might hang clothes on to air next to the warm tank.

 

[PeedOftec]

When installing the cable avoid having loops of loose cable which people might hang clothes on to air next to the warm tank.

Good "Top Tip" there... like it..


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