Cost for a Plumber?

[Davies365]

Hi Guys just looking for a rough estimate for how much a plumber would charge to fix a leak in a rad?
I know they will vary from region to region but ball park would be appreciated and I live in North Wales if that helps.

It is leaking were the valve is screwed into the the bottom of the towel rail (leaks on both sides). I fitted the rail and just can't seem to get it to seal. I have tried putting tons of ptfe on but nothing stops so I think it is time to call in the professionals as it doing my nut.
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[gazthepottertonengineer]

about 2 sheep an hour isnt it in North wales

Bah

 

[oilman]

I was going to say £150, but North Wales is a long way, so there'll be £450 travelling as well.

 

[Davies365]

about 2 sheep an hour isnt it in North wales

I was wondering how long it would take. Damn you are fast on this forum (speed of replies that is)

 

[JohnD]

I'm just an ignorant (but fairly sensible) householder, and sorry, not answering the question, but you might find old-fashioned boss White or Plumbers Mait sealing paste will fix it. Suppose you could try that while searching for a plumber.

BTW do you know about the rubber bungs that enable you to work on one joint at a time without draining the syst?





(I think this reply is no less helpful than the others)

 

[Paul Barker]

This is after you have taken it off is it?

Unusual for the tails which screw into the rad to leak, quite unusual for the big nut to leak. When diy people fiddle with their rads they usually bend the copper drop at the compression nut.

Anyhow wherever the problem is drain down, take that portion to bits and reassemble correctly, plumbing is not brain surgery.

If loads of ptfe isn't working then you are applying it wrongly or to the wrong part. It doesn't do a blind bit of good on the thread of a compression fitting for example.

If you have bent the pipe at the compression fittings cut/lengthen and start again.

There is no National scale for plumbing charges, there isn't even a scale for a specific location. It is impossible to answer the title question.

 

[Softus]

The unknown elements are:

1. Ease of draining down.
2. Ease of refilling and venting.
3. How damaged the rad is.
4. How damaged the copper drops are.

If everything went swimmingly well, and it was just a case of dismantling and reassembling correctly, then it would be all done in less than two hours. Personally, I charge a minimum of two hours anyway.

We all have tales of things going badly. For example, some systems, mysteriously, have no [edited from "on"] drain cocks. Others have been almost criminally neglected such that the cold feed (on an open vented system) needs unblocking. Others have been badly installed and are festooned with pipe runs that cause air locks....

You get the drift. If you know that your system is in otherwise good condition, then be prepared to be charged between 2 and 4 hours, plus parts.

 

[Agile]

North Wales is a big place!

I only got one sheep ( well actually a lamb ) when I did a favour for someone in North Wales but that was a while ago.

There are a couple of quite good people in Llandudno ( lovely place! ) but I dont remember who they are. I usually am there at the beginning of November for the electronics show but missed it this year.

As mentioned above, fixing the valves is quite a simple job but only if you know how!

Tony Glazier

 

[ChrisR]

We hear quite a bit of folk getting a seal by using plenty of ptfe (roughen the thread with a hacksaw blade so it stays on instead of winding off) folowed by Fernox LS-X which is a Leak Sealing Silicone. Put some on female threads and on the valve spigot(on top of the ptfe). You must give it time to set, and it doesn't really stick to wet metal despite what they claim.
If that doesn't work I'd be surprised.

 

[Able]

If they are both parallel threads and you're using PTFE, you're in trouble.
Hemp and white compound, IMHO is still the business for sealing threads in heating (Cat.3) . Illegal on wholesome (Cat.1), potable water though.

 

[Paul Barker]

I totally agree Able, it is the only fail safe method. A mate of mine used to do assemble sprinkler systems in West End theatres with it, aparently the pressures are more than we use in domestic. He taught me of it's great reliability.

 

[Softus]

I agree that bits of string and putty are reliable, but it isn't the only fail-safe method.

I always use the method that ChrisR described, and I've never, ever, ever, had a leak on a rad tail.

 

[PEDANTICVINDICTIVEMAN]

about 2 sheep an hour isnt it in North wales

Bah

Blimey, you get to s**g 2 sheep just for fixing one leak

 

[ollski]

Yep with chris, fernox lsx and ptfe (gas) I can't see how you could get a leak through that even if you tried.

 

[Steady]

Drain down and take the valves off and have another go.Wind the ptfe on to the tails clockwise(-as you look at the threads end on) and keep it tight and overlapping as you go.Put between six and ten wraps on the threads then wind the tails back into the rad with a radiator spanner(big hex key)and make sure they're nice and tight.As others have said this is an easy joint to make and should not leak if done correctly.Don't cross thread 'em!