Coverting Y-plan to S-plan ???

[lchris21]

As part of an attempt at zoning my CH, I've come to the conclusion is more beneficial in the long run to covert to S-plan from my exisiting Y-plan, open vent system.

Am I being a bit simplistic in thinking I just need to junk the 3 port valve sub in 3 x 2port (CH, DHW, UFH) valves and install some sort of bypass? Or is that it?

Obviously there'll be a bit of fiddling abouts with wires, controllers, wiring centers etc, etc, which I'm prepared for??

I've just installed an UFH heating system and want to have separate control over it away from the main house CH. Research in adapting the Y-plan is ending up with me chasing my tail

Any input greatfully recieved.

Cheers

 

[Agile]

Thats about it.

Most of a days work if the wiring terminates in the controls area.

No one should ever fit UFH without the approriate controls to seperately time it.

I do hopw you have the right kit with its own pump for the UFH.

Tony

 

[lchris21]

Yeah, own pump and blender. Dunno if I can blend smoothies with it yet though

Thanks for the reply

 

[mysteryman]

As in another thread on this topic today, your bypass should feed a small rad or heated towel rail on lockshield valves. The purpose of pump overrun and a bypass is to dissipate residual heat from the boiler. A simple bypass simply sends it back to the boiler.

 

[picasso]

As in another thread on this topic today, your bypass should feed a small rad or heated towel rail on lockshield valves. The purpose of pump overrun and a bypass is to dissipate residual heat from the boiler. A simple bypass simply sends it back to the boiler.

where did you get this from ? as long as the boiler has the minimum flow rate through it on pump overrun what does it matter if the water is 80c or 60c, its still cooling the heat exchanger.

 

[mysteryman]

The objective is to use the residual heat, rather than waste it.

 

[rayburner]

My problem with pump overrun is it goes on for a long long time making noise and burning electricty so heat dump is necessary in my case with a rayburn

 

[rayburner]

As part of an attempt at zoning my CH, I've come to the conclusion is more beneficial in the long run to covert to S-plan from my exisiting Y-plan, open vent system.

Am I being a bit simplistic in thinking I just need to junk the 3 port valve sub in 3 x 2port (CH, DHW, UFH) valves and install some sort of bypass? Or is that it?

Obviously there'll be a bit of fiddling abouts with wires, controllers, wiring centers etc, etc, which I'm prepared for??

I've just installed an UFH heating system and want to have separate control over it away from the main house CH. Research in adapting the Y-plan is ending up with me chasing my tail

Any input greatfully recieved.

Cheers

I have just put in 3 underfloor heated zones in my extension hooked up to the existing system without separate pump and blender as it was too complex to separate completely. These are useful for the purpose
http://www.heatingcontrolsonline.co.uk/danfoss-randall-fjvr-sensor-p-247.html
I haven't fully tested the system yet as it hasn't been cold enough but it seems to work fine

 

[Agile]

Putting 70° into your UFH will result in a floor too hot to walk on without thick shoes.

Also likely to crack/spoil floor covering.

Why does DIY have to equal badly done............

 

[ChrisR]

Seconded.
Those things

are horrible.

Mysteryman you're 20 years out of date on boiler overrun circuits. RTFM!

 

[mysteryman]

Out of date in what way? Polite answers only, please.

Weather compensation will provide the best possible control of UFH, including maximum temperature limitation with a good system.

 

[rayburner]

I've heard all the theory about underfloor temps and yes the ideal way to do it is with a large flow of cooler water to heat the slab quickly up to desired temps without overheat but the same effect can be acheived by reducing and controlling the flow of hotter water

 

[mysteryman]

No it can't. The start of the loop will be too hot.

 

[picasso]

I've heard all the theory about underfloor temps and yes the ideal way to do it is with a large flow of cooler water to heat the slab quickly up to desired temps without overheat but the same effect can be acheived by reducing and controlling the flow of hotter water

Have you considered how much it will cost to renew the ufh ? its not designed to run at 70c and if the result is a damaged system its going to be costly to put right, why not install it the way the manufacturer intended.

 

[Agile]

The UFH tube will not fail at 70° or even 80°C.

But the screed will probably crack very effectively.

Furthermore whatever is laid on the screed may well fail as well.

Tony