Cracked clay gully replacement. A few questions

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Hi all, thanks for having me on the forum.

I’m in the process of replacing 2x clay gully’s that capture the grey water and rain water from the kitchen & bathroom. (Toilet waste is separate)

They were cracked at the top and originally sealed up with concrete which had also cracked. Upon digging down they are cracked quite badly at the joint with the drain.

When looking for a replacement do I need to have a trap at these locations? Or just replace with a suitable similar bend in PVC?

And as these were originally sealed at the top with concrete, do they still need to be sealed? I see different gully options online with a plastic grate. I would prefer to seal them from debris if possible, but unsure what to use to do so?

Is there anything I need to look out for when purchasing replacements? The pipes have been bonded with a joint cement of some kind, so it may be the case that I need to cut the clay pipe behind the neck if it doesn’t chip away cleanly.

Any advice is greatly welcomed.

Thanks
Dan


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I'd have a trap, just to prevent smells.

I reckon you will have to cut that after the socket, but you may be lucky
 
I think you might be right Mikeey, even just to leave enough space to fit the new piece.
Would the rubber reducing connectors with the hose clips be the best way to join onto the clay? Or is there something that pushes in much like a pan waste connecter does?

And can the plastic gully’s be cemented in place at the top once everything is back filled?
 
I think you might be right Mikeey, even just to leave enough space to fit the new piece.
Would the rubber reducing connectors with the hose clips be the best way to join onto the clay? Or is there something that pushes in much like a pan waste connecter does?

And can the plastic gully’s be cemented in place at the top once everything is back filled?
I see no gulleys only bends.

Cut off the bulbous female end of the clay pipe. Fit a salt glaze to plastic, Fernco type connector. Fit a rest bend to the bottom of the stack. No need for additional concrete.

I'd replace the stack whist I was at it.
 
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Thanks noseal

So a rest bend with no trap would be ok? Guess that’s the same as it is currently. Secured with some lean mix at the base and a neat concrete block around it at floor level would be fine?

Not sure if you mean replace the full stack or just a base joint? It’s a shared block so a bit more work than I’d like to undertake to change the whole thing and it seems pretty solid at present.

I’d like to join the cast pipe straight to the top of the rest bend if possible, is there any reason not to do this?
I see no gulleys only bends.

Cut off the bulbous female end of the clay pipe. Fit a salt glaze to plastic, Fernco type connector. Fit a rest bend to the bottom of the stack. No need for additional concrete.

I'd replace the stack whist I was at it.
 
If you want to keep the cast iron I’d do the same as noseall post but put a gulley in, no need to seal the cast iron pipe against smells where it converts to 110mm plastic then
 
All unvented waste drain connections should be trapped. And as that's got a down pipe connection, there should be a means of clearing the trap.
 
All unvented waste drain connections should be trapped. And as that's got a down pipe connection, there should be a means of clearing the trap.
Thanks for the help all, it’s appreciated.

The stack is vented at the top of the building if that makes any difference woody?

Either way the current plan is for the cast iron pipe to go into one of these
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Then have that connected to one of these
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Then join pvc to the clay with a fernco connector.

Sound reasonable?
 
Yes I think that would be a good choice.

Remember that you can put the trap lower in the ground to align with the pipe, rather than seating it higher and messing about with more bends.
 

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