Creaking stairs/floors in new build

Dear Pilot Pete,

Very grateful to you for such a detailed reply! The particle board sheets do have the odd screw in them, but any I have tried to get up simply turn in their holes and grow neither tighter nor looser. So, they might as well be the nails you describe. It sounds like it is going to be a big job. I agree with you: the building regs are lax on a few areas, such as floors. Do you think I should replace the chipboard with ply before putting down an engineered or solid wood floor? As I am required by my lease to also put down soundproofing, is there an augmentation to soundproofing that could go under the ply subfloor while I am at it?

Many, many thanks for your help. I really appreciate it!

Cheers, elemoine
 
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Glad my experiences helped! I am no flooring expert, I am sure Matty will post a suitable answer to your specific flooring questions. I am unsure of suitable substrates for engineered or solid wood flooring, I would GUESS that correctly fixed chipboard would be fine, but ply better. I would think the main thing is to ensure it is firmly secured at the specified centres and not subject to moisture. Mattysupra? ;)

If you are going to lift a chipboard floor and it is not in great condition, and you are not on a really tight budget, I think the additional cost of ply would probably be worth it, but that is a personal opinion. You may want to check/ add noggins as required once you find out the required screw centres for the flooring finish.

You can get sound deadening panels to lay onto you floor, I know Wedi do them; they are called Non-Step http://www.wedi.co.uk/nonstep.htm. I have never used them (would they stop the noise of 3 under ten boys jumping off bunk beds? :LOL: ) They look easy enough to lay, but being Wedi I can't imagine they are cheap! Other products must be available, worth a Google I would suggest. It appears they go on top of your substrate rather than below....again best to check with someone like Matty that they are suitable to put under your engineered/ solid floor finish before buying and fitting. ;)

Good luck.

PP
 
elemoine said:
Dear Pilot Pete,

Very grateful to you for such a detailed reply! The particle board sheets do have the odd screw in them, but any I have tried to get up simply turn in their holes and grow neither tighter nor looser. So, they might as well be the nails you describe. It sounds like it is going to be a big job. I agree with you: the building regs are lax on a few areas, such as floors. Do you think I should replace the chipboard with ply before putting down an engineered or solid wood floor? As I am required by my lease to also put down soundproofing, is there an augmentation to soundproofing that could go under the ply subfloor while I am at it?

Many, many thanks for your help. I really appreciate it!

Cheers, elemoine
Start a new topic asking this question and i will advice you as pilotpete said. No one will find the answer they want to these questions in this topic. Also woodyoulike has very good knowledge in this subject so they can answer most if not all questions for you. Just a little fine tuning on there dutch converted to english ways are sometimes needed :LOL:
 
Many thanks again PilotPete,

No problem with dampness, as my flat is fourth floor, and also the chipboard is in nearly new condition (no small boys jumping out of bunk beds, etc!). So maybe I just need to screw the floor down. Fingers crossed!

Many thanks again.

P.S. What's a noggin? I'm originally from Canada and there seems to be no field more liberally laced with nationally-specific terms than the field of building and hardware. I am always getting (or giving!) blank looks at B&Q!
 
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elemoine said:
What's a noggin?

The shortest timber joist

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elemoine said:
Hello, all,
I have just joined and read your exchange with interest, as I am also in a newbuild (3 years) with creaking floors and I thought I was alone! The two things seem as though they ought not to be mentioned in the same sentence, don't they? One of the many things about my new flat that is disappointing. Anyway, I too know from unhappy experience that neither the builder nor the housing association (through whom I would have to go for NHBC cover) will deal with it. So, I have to deal with it and am indebted to dunder for the tip about the brackets. My question is: how do you get the floorboards up? I am assuming that your floorboards are similar to mine? Not planks, but greenish particle board in sheets that are about 2' x 8'? I presume they are tongue in groove? I haven't been able to lift a floorboard yet. I don't know how to get at an edge. Do I need to take skirting board off?

Very grateful to have found my problem is not unique, though I wish none of us had to deal with it! My builder's John Laing Partnership, by the way. Also grateful for any flooboard lifting tips.

Very best,



HI THE BEST THING IS TO BUY METAL HERRING BONE STRUTS THEY WORK IN THE SAME WAY AS A NOGGING BUT ARE MUCH BETTER AS TO NO MOVEMENT THEY FIT DIAGONALLY AND THEY ARE SCREWED TO THE JOISTS, AS YOU KNOW WOOD EXPANDS AND CONTRACTS THESE STRUTS ARE METAL AND THEREFOR DONT EXPAND OR CONTRACT ,ANY BUILDERS MERCHANT WILL SELL THESE , MAKE SURE YOU GET THE RIGHT SIZE DEPENDING ON THE SIZE OF YOUR CENTERS OF THE JOISTS NORMALLY 400MM , BEFORE YOU DO THIS TAKE UP THE BOARDS WALK OVER ALL THE EXPOSED JOISTS , "BE CAREFULL NOT TO FALL THROUGH" IF THE CREAKING STOPS YOU KNOW IT IS THE BOARDS AND SOME 2 3/4" X 10 SPAX SCREWS WILL DO A GOOD JOB OF SECURING THEM DOWN , DO AWAY WITH NAILS , WHY OTHER BUILDERS USE NAILS I DONT KNOW BUT THEY DONT SECURE THE BOARDS PROPERLY AND OVER TIME WILL MOVE , IF THE CREAKING IS STILL THERE WHEN YOU WALK ON THE JOISTS THEN REMOVE ALL OF THE INSULATION FROM THE FLOOR KEEP IT TO ONE SIDE , NOW YOU CAN SEE ALL THE JOISTS AND SERVICES PROPLERY IE PIPES CABLES ETC NOW LOOK TO SEE IF THERE IS ANYTHING LIKE TIGHT PIPES THROUGH JOISTS IF THE PLUMBERS WERE GOOD THEY WOULD OF USED A 25MM HOLE FOR A 15MM PIPE SO THERE IS PLENTY OF ROOM FOR EXPANSION, CHECK ALL JOIST HANGERS IF USED, A JOIST HANGER IS WHERE A JOIST MEETS ANOTHER JOIST OR WALL A METAL HANGER THESE CAN SOMETIMES MAKE A CREAK OR CRACK NOISE AGAINST EXPANSION I STAY AWAY FROM HANGERS IF I CAN, AS THE WOOD JOISTS ARE USUALLY PUT IN PLACE DAMP AND A SNUG FIT SO BY THE TIME THE HOUSE IS BUILT AND THE CENTRAL HEATING DRYS OUT THE HOUSE, THE JOISTS JAM UP AGAINST THE HANGER CAUSING PRESSURE THEREFORE CAUSING FRICTON AND THATS HOW YOU GET THE CREAKING GOOD BUILDERS KNOW THIS AND AVOID IT BUT GOOD BUILDERS ARE HARD TO COME BY , MOST OF THESE BIG DEVELOPERS JUST HAVE ANY TRADES PEOPLE TO DO THE JOB AND LITTLE THINGS LIKE THIS A BUILDING INSPECTOR WOULD NEVER PICK UP ON IT ,NO MATTER HOW MANY TIMES I TELL THEM. ALSO CHECK FOR ANY SCREWS NAILS STICKING OUT ANYWHERE NORMALLY YOU CAN TRACK A CREAK IN THE JOISTS JUST BY LISTENING CLOSEY THEN YOU CAN SEE THE PROBLEM , WEDGING AND THE HERRING BONE STRUTS WILL DO THE JOB FORGET THE TALC IDEA "NONSENSE" THATS LIKE THE GUY WHO INVENTED TYRE WELD IN A CAN . IT NEVER WORKS

THANKS
 
timber noggings work fine.

timber shrinks very very little along the grain.

even in ancient timber.

metal flexes and bends.
 
Hi everyone,

If you own a new build and your top floors creaks try this fix; It took me half an hour and cost 38p!

Before you go screwing into things and risk hitting plastic pipes, cables and god knows what else, it's worth having a go.

You will need; 1 x pair of pliers, 1 x flathead screwdriver, Hammer / mallet, handful of coins (I found 2p & 5p best), hoover.

1) Walk around and see if the creaks are coming from the edges of the floor. If they are, this is a easy fix.
2)Pull edges of carpet up to expose the grippers.
3) Tap a flat head screwdriver between the floor and skirting boards where the creaks are coming from, put your foot on the handle to push down and use the gripper as a fulcrum to create a small gap.
4) Push a coin in the gap you created between the floor and the skirting board
5) Tap it in with the hammer
6) Continue this all around the creaking area / entire room if necessary
7) Go to floor underneath and get wife / someone to walk around and listen for creaks.
8) Repeat 4-6 until no more creaks.
9) Replace carpet and tap down with hammer / mallet
10) Hoover
11) Enjoy the hair you haven't yet pulled out from your creaking floors.

This literally took me 30 minutes, most of that was moving furniture and hoovering up after.

Hope this helps

M x
 

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