Cupboard door
- Thread starter Keitai
- Start date
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D
Deleted member 174758
Make one. 2040 x 726 is a standard door size in 35 and 44mm thickness. Try using a timber or builder's merchant (or Howdens) instead of a diy store. Bit more awkward if you require a glazed door
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I was going to mention a chain saw like the OP used on that wardrobe a while ago.
D
Deleted member 174758
Thought you needed a ticket to.use one of them. That, and a pair of Kevlar underpantsI was going to mention a chain saw like the OP used on that wardrobe a while ago.
Will do. I personally think it would be better to have two folding in to each other. Could you just cut a solid door in half for that? I'll go to Howdens for 726 anyhow
D
Deleted member 174758
No. Because the door, if it is a flush door, won't be solid wood.
Interior fire doors (i.e. heavier flush doors) consist of a dense chipboard core around which, typically, a softwood lipping is glued on all 4 sides. This lipping varies but is often in the region of 10 to 20mm thick. The faces are often thin glue bonded plywood with a show grade veneer outermost, in a species such as mahogany, lauan, meranti, etc. Finally the long edges are lipped eith 6 to 10mm thick hardwood. There are variations on this such as the hardwood plywood being applied after the edge lipping oo rge lipping being round 3 or even 4 sides of the door, but the fundamental issue is that the core is chipboard, not solid wood.
Lightwood doors are even filmsier, with a cardboard "egg carton" core, so they are even worse to deal with if you cut them. To make matters worse they have denser hinge blocks (generally a block of chipboard or softwood) glued on the inside on only one side with a lock block of the same material on the middle of the rail on the opposite edge which makes them very awkward to modify
A competent, experienced carpenter can often make a passable job of cutting and re-lipping a solid core fire door on site, but the technique does vary according to the door specifics and it is easier to be successful if you have a rail saw, guide rails, a vacuum, an 18 ga pinner and a router
Interior fire doors (i.e. heavier flush doors) consist of a dense chipboard core around which, typically, a softwood lipping is glued on all 4 sides. This lipping varies but is often in the region of 10 to 20mm thick. The faces are often thin glue bonded plywood with a show grade veneer outermost, in a species such as mahogany, lauan, meranti, etc. Finally the long edges are lipped eith 6 to 10mm thick hardwood. There are variations on this such as the hardwood plywood being applied after the edge lipping oo rge lipping being round 3 or even 4 sides of the door, but the fundamental issue is that the core is chipboard, not solid wood.
Lightwood doors are even filmsier, with a cardboard "egg carton" core, so they are even worse to deal with if you cut them. To make matters worse they have denser hinge blocks (generally a block of chipboard or softwood) glued on the inside on only one side with a lock block of the same material on the middle of the rail on the opposite edge which makes them very awkward to modify
A competent, experienced carpenter can often make a passable job of cutting and re-lipping a solid core fire door on site, but the technique does vary according to the door specifics and it is easier to be successful if you have a rail saw, guide rails, a vacuum, an 18 ga pinner and a router
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