Cupped Cladding

[big-all]

the usual with this cladding is hidden nail or clips no fixings showing
but i never use them i just use 18gauge pins with an arrow 100
http://compare.ebay.co.uk/like/3209...ixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar&adtype=pla&crdt=0

 

[djb7]

Thanks for the tips everybody,i think i will fix straight away.
i'm using panel pins at moment, 2 top and bottom because that will be covered by dado and skirting, and one through tongue in middle, but thats tending to split a bit so might try some veneer pins or the clips.

As for timber yards, i bought some wood to repair garage doors last summer and that was bowed, replaced that.
The skirting for room i'm doing now i purchased from same merchant and that is bent upwards in middle,so i'm not overly convinced they're better.

I don't like the fact you can't pick your own, they pick it and realy when they're doing it everyday they should know better, i didn't send skirting back because it's 4.8 metres and was a right pain to get in the house.

 

[Harbourwoodwork]

Don't give up on proper timber yards the quality of the timber far exedes that of the sheds ,shed timber is fast grown white wood ,normally used for flooring quality timber,you need to change your timber yard to one that lets you select your own timber.dont be intimidated by the staff they probably don't know any more than you ,but know how to intmidate DIYers.just be asertive and don't buy any crap you don't want.

 

[djb7]

@Harbourwoodwork,
You mentioned using pva,it says not to use adhesives for some reason
but what would happen if i glue top and bottom, and nail.
Would this prevent any movement at all ? or will they split if they try to move ?.

 

[Harbourwoodwork]

I that could happen but its better than all the boards cupping off the walls ,once it has settled down, a bit of two pack will sort out any crack that might appear just hold back on the finish paint work for a week .I don't know where your using the boarding but skirting at the bottom ,horizontal battens every 16" and a bullnose capping with a scotia underneath all hep to hold it togther,

 

[big-all]

i use a very fine bead literally 1mm no more this will spread out to around 5-10mm on contact never had any problem
it allows a bit off movement if the pressure builds up allows a bit off cupping at the edges but holds the middle and help avoids splitting and excessive movement

if you fire the pins in at 45 degrees avoid the last 3" off the tongue you should get very little splitting
you just need to place the batons 2-2.5 inches from the end dependant on width

 

[joinerjohn]

Personally, I refuse to fit cladding of this type from the sheds. Moisture content when bought is so variable. Shrinkage is a complete unknown. My daughter bought some of this type from B&Q some years ago and got me to fit it (a week after she'd bought it) . The cupping of individual boards was just like those of the OP's pics and was really inconsistent across the amount of boards she'd bought. I bought some 12mm thick cladding from a timber yard and fitted that instead. Had no problems whatsoever.

 

[big-all]

Personally, I refuse to fit cladding of this type from the sheds. Moisture content when bought is so variable. Shrinkage is a complete unknown. My daughter bought some of this type from B&Q some years ago and got me to fit it (a week after she'd bought it) . The cupping of individual boards was just like those of the OP's pics and was really inconsistent across the amount of boards she'd bought. I bought some 12mm thick cladding from a timber yard and fitted that instead. Had no problems whatsoever.

yes i should have qualified my previous answer i don't include shed bought cladding in my answer it will of course work the way i suggest but more likely to come unstuck metaphorically and actually as the cupping rate and amount will be far more