Cutting off excess wood

[morpheus83uk]

Hello,

I have made an Octagonal tunnel where the individual boards were "cut to size" and it's been glued together. I have now found a couple of the boards are a tad longer then the rest.

So I am wondering whats the best approach for dealing with this so they are all the same length while glued together?

I was thinking maybe sawing them off but where they are I can't cut them in line with the others it's a bit odd. Plus if I did what saw would be best for this?

Thanks

James

 

[Burnerman]

What size is the tunnel, James?
I'd consider scribing a line around the end - with the aid of wide paper tape as a guide - and trimming round with a panel or crosscut saw.
John

 

[morpheus83uk]

Erm it is 250mm from top to bottom.

Just had a look at the panel saw and I don't have one of them in my garage lol. Is a cross cut saw one of them two handed saws? As thats what they look like online?

Would a normal hand saw one of the universal ones do the job or would that lean in?

Thanks

James

 

[Burnerman]

You need a typical joiners saw - crosscut refers to the number of teeth per inch, which is less than a rip saw of the same type.
Maybe look at Screwfix 44210?
John

 

[morpheus83uk]

Ah cool.

I have one of these which seems similar...

https://www.screwfix.com/p/stanley-...20/97361#product_additional_details_container

Would that work or is it the wrong saw?

Thanks

James

 

[Burnerman]

Yep, that's the sort of thing. A sharp saw gives you a clean, accurate cut - a blunt one wanders every time.
Carefully does it though, if your octagon sides are thin. Have a practice on some waste timber first!
John

 

[Burnerman]

Before we go any further......how thick are the boards you have used?
John

 

[morpheus83uk]

The boards are 18mm thick.

And it's good to know I have the correct saw for the job.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

You need a typical joiners saw - crosscut refers to the number of teeth per inch, which is less than a rip saw of the same type.
Maybe look at Screwfix 44210?
John

Sorry, no John, but as a time-served man who started before hard points were that common in the trades I cannot let that pass. A cross cut saw is one where the teeth have a backwards rake and side set to sever the fibres as they cut across the direction of the grain. A rip saw has chisel set teeth with very little side set and is designed to cut with the grain (where it is not necessary to sever the fibres) so it will not make a neat cut at all across the grain. Rip saws always have a lower tooth count than cross cut saws of the same length. Fortunately for the OP hardpoint saws are all cross cut pattern AFAIK.

Panel saws were designed to cut thinner materials such as that used in timber panelling with typical lengths of 20 to 24in (depending on the length of your arm) and generally were 7 to 10 points per inch - the bigger the tooth count the finer the cut, but the smaller the tooth and the more easily the saw will bind in a deep cut. For crosscuts for heavy timber were 24 to 28in long and had 5 to 8 points. Rip saws, on the other hand were generally 26 to 30in long with 3 to 7 teeth. In all these cases the longer the saw the lower the tooth count per inch unless the man had had a special order saw made

BTW a lot of trade joiners I know buy the Bahco Barracuda 244+ saw for general use these days

 

[Burnerman]

Excellent post! Wondering how many people know (or care) about that one
John

 

[lostinthelight]

You need a typical joiners saw - crosscut refers to the number of teeth per inch, which is less than a rip saw of the same type.
Maybe look at Screwfix 44210?
John

Not only the number of teeth ,but the angle at which they are sharpened, rips at right angles and crosses at 60°, well thats what I was taught over 50 year ago if I remember correctly?
litl

 

[Burnerman]

Yep, that's in the depths of my memory cell too - if I could only find it
John