Cutting pipework in confined spaces

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Anyone got any tips on cutting 15mm copper pipe that is fitted close together and fairly tight against wall in confined space ? Can't get a pipe cutter (slicer) around it, too close to other pipes to get a junior hacksaw in there either. Beginning to look like a small grinder to do the job. Anyone with other suggestions before I buy ?
 
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Have used but can be a bit ragged :( have to tickle with small file.) it`s an Fing Frig of a job ;)
 
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You have to be a bully, get a floor bar or something and getting leverage from the pipe next to your pipe prize your pipe forward enough to get the angle grinder/ junior hacksaw/ reciporocating saw with metal cutting blade right through it but without cutting into proximal pipes.
 
Have used a jigsaw, also a jigsaw metal cutting blade (bust one reversed) in a pair of mole grips, as a padsaw. Also, come to think of it, a junior hacksaw blade in mole grips, cuttting on the pull stroke - quite quick.

There's another saw "Scorpion"- B&D diy type thing you see around for about £30. Like a jigsaw but with very fast blade action, so much easier to use somehere like that than a jigsaw. Also slices through aluminium flues in seconds, and plunge cuts into floorboards without going into the next one, with a very fine kerf (cut width). Blades aren't cheap but a great thing when a bit of precision is needed. The small wood cutting blade cuts copper easily
froogle_image
 
I normally use a junior hacksaw blade with some tape wrapped around to form a handle. Takes time but you need to be gentle so as not to buckle the blade.
 
I had a job like that yesterday, customer was happy for me to put the new gate valve in the loft. Phew!

Don't know why we bother with them anyway, they never work in future years when you need them.

I think every house should have a bung. Never fails, just have to get forearm wet, big deal.
 
I have a padsaw with a metal cutting blade - am about to give it a go - wish me luck ;)
 
Paul Barker said:
I think every house should have a bung. Never fails, just have to get forearm wet, big deal.

I have very low success rate due to tank connectors with internal ribs. Any special method for dealing with those? I have tried pushing cones in VERY hard, they still leak.
 
No, must have all been smooth the ones I've done. The bungs are 12 quid a pair very long taper of very spngy rubber, come with a piece of string which on first pair you buy wraps itself around every tool in your boc, second pair you buy, you bin the string with the packaging.

Winesaver lever type bung also works in 22mm outlets, I've borrowed those from householders successfully..

Did a school header tank ('bout size of swimming pool) with carton of plumbers mate, but pressure was so immense it wouldn't come out again, had to dive in and lever a gap in the side. Was hairy moment, scared of blocking system with escaping plumbers mate.

Well, who wants to wait for a swimming pool to empty before you can move a rad?

I seldome have success with my pipe freezing gear, and tend to go for suspending system instead, which always seems to work for me.

Of course many times you can just cut the pipe live and get a service valve on before householder gets back with cup of tea. Just wipe glasses off and job's a goodun.
 
Between the hacksaw blade and the pad saw the hack saw blade worked marvellous, if a complete @rse to do... :)
 
ChrisR said:
Paul Barker said:
I think every house should have a bung. Never fails, just have to get forearm wet, big deal.

I have very low success rate due to tank connectors with internal ribs. Any special method for dealing with those? I have tried pushing cones in VERY hard, they still leak.




Use an internal expanding bung.
 

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