Cutting solid Wood door, metal inside

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Hi,
I brought a second hand Wood door for my Shed, It was listed as solid wood and i too believed it was as it is so heavy, I started cutting it and I have hit metal, so I cut a cross section to see what it was.
From the pics can anybody tell me if this is likely to run all the way through the width of the door, or could I cut beyond it?
If it runs right through I guess I'll have to take another couple cm off of the top and drop down below this and repair the corner.
I've already taken 5cm off of the top and stopped where I did to keep it looking in proportion, I also have a fair bit to take off the side, i guess it's unlikely there will be any metal beyond this in the photo will there?
Thanks for your help
 

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A powerful magnet might help identify the location of metal buried in wood.

Blup
 
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very hard to tell this must be for a specific purpose
in general you will not have a frame only in the centre off the door it will be probably at both edges as a security door as that is a heavy duty frame
i personally would chuck the door and start again as framework that size is to stop a very heavy attack
worth tapping the door with a screwdriver handle to find hollow spots
 
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Thanks for the advice, I wasn't sure if this was just normal framework for a front door tbh, I wanted a heavy duty door for the shed as the last one was more like a gate and it got kicked in quite sometime ago, so my plan is to make it as strong as possible and to fit an alarm to limit the chances of this happening again.
Thanks Blup, Using the Magnet actually reminded me I have a 3 in 1 detector for pipes etc so that may give a good idea if the metal just runs through the sides or the center too.
I will be sticking with this door though, regardless of if I have to repair the bottom, it is repairable with an off cut or the door, some epoxy and it also has a pretty solid kick plate that will be reattached anyway so any damage will be behind this.

The cuts I made so far were done with a jig saw, I'm going to borrow my GF's dad's circular saw, surely that will cut through the metal and the wood much easier won't it? I figure that if I can just continue the cut I can strengthen it if needs be then. Regardless it will still be an extremely strong and secure door for a brick shed which is the main aim.
Thanks
 
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I would guess it's a metal frame, all sides, possibly 100mm in from every edge.

With a circular saw and a multipurpose blade, you should be able to cut through everything in one go, yes even the frame.

Looks like you are taking a fair bit off the bottom, might have been better to take equal amounts off top and bottom, then same on the sides.
How much are you taking off the sides? will you still be able to hang with butt hinges, or are you going to fashion something more diy, with T hinges?
 
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I would guess it's a metal frame, all sides, possibly 100mm in from every edge.

With a circular saw and a multipurpose blade, you should be able to cut through everything in one go, yes even the frame.

Looks like you are taking a fair bit off the bottom, might have been better to take equal amounts off top and bottom, then same on the sides.
How much are you taking off the sides? will you still be able to hang with butt hinges, or are you going to fashion something more diy, with T hinges?

Hi Mr Chibs, thanks for your advice

So do you think there's a possibility that if I continue the current line that I will be cutting all the way through a cross member of the metal frame that runs along the bottom of the door? If so, maybe it would be easier to drop down 1.2-1.5cm and take the same off the top again? (If possible)
I'll need to take (Edit) 2.5 to 3cm off the side, this will be fine as we can see where the metal frame starts.
This door was the closest I found to the measurements needed after about 2 weeks of looking on FB marketplace, in fact I'd seen it right at the beginning but they hadn't listed the measurements! It went in my Qashqai and was a pain in the ..... so I will make it work come hell or high water :)
Maybe that's my problem, I used to be a perfectionist but nowadays I just think, ah i'll make it work, guess that means i'm getting old?

I think maybe the original owner had took a fair bit off the top so there was not so much room to play with? I went two CM short of where the decorative arch groove starts, really I was toing and froing between taking an extra 1 to 2cm off the top which would have meant I just missed the metal frame, such is life I guess but we live and learn eh?
There is a good possibility I'm quite close to the metal frame at the top (if the decorative grooves are any indication) but I'll get my stud/pipe detector on it over the weekend and see if that helps.

I am just going to use the 3 large Butt hinges that came with it, I did contemplate lift off ones but wondered if would be a good idea with such a heavy door? Also are they as secure?
The only other concern I had was if the old frame would be strong enough, I believe it is as the wood looks good and is only a little slimmer than the frame to which my back door is attached which is reasonably heavy.
 
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Final update:
I cut the bottom, actually a little more than I originally intended to compensate for the slight incline into the shed.
The Circular saw made it effortless, sparks flew everywhere but I actually quite enjoyed it and it was like cream cheese compared to the jigsaw. Also I used the detector and that worked well too, it appears there are a few cross sections but they start a fair way above where I was cutting.
The top was at it's limit, as you can see in the 2nd pic, I have literally just hit the cheaper chipboard type wood.
Anyway I'm glad I persevered, thanks for all of your advice!
 

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(Thought last message didn't post)
 

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Well done, just make sure you paint/seal the chipboard edge well... as it will soak up water like a sponge and over time will probably delaminate the door.

Think I would also add a weather bar or strip to stop rain running down the door. Use plenty of silicone.
 
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