Cylinder, coil pack or ignition cables?
- Thread starter timbook
- Start date
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Ok so I have almost every size Hex/Allen key except 5.5mm and that is what seems to be needed. Never mind, hex socket ratchet will work too. 10mm is just too big. 9mm is just too small. So, it's gotta be 3/8(9.5mm) right? No, wrong. Is there such a thing as a 9.75mm? And why don't I have one among my set? Heart offcially broken! 
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Either someone has been faffing big time with the wrong size gear, or rust has taken its toll on bolt heads and so on......never had that with VAG stuff!
5.5mm Allen is common enough, but I've never seen it used there.
John
5.5mm Allen is common enough, but I've never seen it used there.
John
Found an unmarked Allen Key in my toolbox, that fits the coil pack! I have replaced the coil pack now and I'm nervous about starting the car! I'm gonna have a bite to eat now and then I'm going out for a spin! I'll post back with the results later. One thing I noticed is that the new coil pack doesn't have the park number on it the way the old pack does? So is that suggesting that I have fitted a cheap replacement part? I mean it looks exactly the same apart from that?
So, I started the car, and the problem remains. It's still jerky on startup and the engine light is still on. I'l be taking it for a drive in a few minutes and we'll see what happens! Should I replace the old coil(numbered part) and try the ignition leads next?
If you have a multimeter, can you unplug each fuel injector in turn, connect across the terminals and check for resistance?
Look for around 15 ohms on each injector.
I hope we (me) haven't spent your cash unnecessarily here
It's usually the done thing to change the plugs with the coil pack too.
John
Look for around 15 ohms on each injector.
I hope we (me) haven't spent your cash unnecessarily here
It's usually the done thing to change the plugs with the coil pack too.
John
John, your knowledge and help is very much appreciated. It also gives me courage to try diy fixes. The car seems to be driving a little better but still a small bit jerky with warning flashing engine light in low gears especially when I've just started the car. Maybe if I buy a vag tester and reset the warning light, it might work out? Apart from that, should I put the previous coil pack back in?
Hmmm still head scratching a bit......curious the warning lamp is flickering now, whereas before it was permanently on?
It would be a good move to get the codes read, but unfortunately just extinguishing the lamp has no effect on the running of the motor - but it's very useful if the lamp comes straight back on again, proving the fault is still there.
An old trick to see if HT leads had broken down was to run the engine in the dark and look for sparking.....not a hard and fast diagnosis of course but useful all the same.
You can of course use the old coil pack again if you are sure it's good.
What state are the plugs in?
John
It would be a good move to get the codes read, but unfortunately just extinguishing the lamp has no effect on the running of the motor - but it's very useful if the lamp comes straight back on again, proving the fault is still there.
An old trick to see if HT leads had broken down was to run the engine in the dark and look for sparking.....not a hard and fast diagnosis of course but useful all the same.
You can of course use the old coil pack again if you are sure it's good.
What state are the plugs in?
John
Well there was some flashing previously too John. The plugs are only a year old and were exppensive. They've only done 4k. The ignition cables look old and 2 have already been replaced by a breakers about 5 months ago. Not sure which 2 though!!
Aye the plugs will be fine then.
How about some more leads from the breakers.....to try and rule those out?
John
How about some more leads from the breakers.....to try and rule those out?
John
John, next step is to check the ignition cables I suppose. I just wonder if the new coil(un-numbered) is better than the old, original part? The car is running slightly better than was yesterday, so maybe?
But just to recap, I decided to through the exact symptoms as they're the same every time.
When I start the car, from cold, or warm, it doesn't fire well. It's weaker than it should be. Then I put it into first and drive. At this point, it's jerky and the engine light flashes, then when I get up to third gear it starts to run better, and the engine light stays on solid. If I stop at traffic lights, the idles are high-ish, the car is slow to pull away once the light turn green. It takes longer than normal to get the power up, but the flashing engine light only happens upon startup. It doesn't repeat again unless I turn the engine off.
I'm hoping it's an ignition lead. If not, I guess it will be either a damaged cylinder or the cat?
But just to recap, I decided to through the exact symptoms as they're the same every time.
When I start the car, from cold, or warm, it doesn't fire well. It's weaker than it should be. Then I put it into first and drive. At this point, it's jerky and the engine light flashes, then when I get up to third gear it starts to run better, and the engine light stays on solid. If I stop at traffic lights, the idles are high-ish, the car is slow to pull away once the light turn green. It takes longer than normal to get the power up, but the flashing engine light only happens upon startup. It doesn't repeat again unless I turn the engine off.
I'm hoping it's an ignition lead. If not, I guess it will be either a damaged cylinder or the cat?
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