Damp Proof Tape

[adam81]

Hi,

I've moved my front door so that know I have the bring course on view where I cut the whole out.

My question is should I put a strip of DPM along the bring course before I make good the area with concrete? Or would I simply concrete straight on top?

When I bricked up the old door I put the strip under thew new blocks so assume this gets the same treatment?

Cheers

 

[ree]

I think i have a rough idea of what you mean but why not post a pic?

 

[adam81]

Here's a pic

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• adam81
• 29 May 2015
• 1

Then I'm talking about using this stuff under the concrete or not as the case maybe.

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Visqueen-Polythene-Damp-Proof-Course-100mm-x-30m/p/226579

To bring it up to level with current floor [/img]

 

[ree]

Thanks for the photo.

Can you post further pics with the door open showing different angles from a lower level?

What is going to be concreted? Or do you mean a mortar bed? Anyway, typically, all walls and their thresholds have a DPC or a membrane (DPM) below them.

 

[adam81]

Hi,

Some more pics.The bit in front of the carpet needs to be levelled a little to bring it up to the level of the existing screed so I can lay my laminate. It's probably less than 15mm at the tallest and as much as a few mm at the shallowest difference.

Yeah probably a mortar bed would be best, but maybe I should simply ply the whole floor, or ply the area in question to get the levels best?

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• adam81
• 1 Jun 2015
• 1

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• adam81
• 1 Jun 2015
• 1

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• adam81
• 1 Jun 2015
• 1

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• adam81
• 1 Jun 2015
• 1

 

[adam81]

The DPM was removed when the threshold was made as it was running along this course of bricks

 

[ree]

Thanks for the pics.

You seem to have a concrete slab with a carpet laid on the finished surface - or you have a slab with a sand and cement screed on top.

There's no sign of a membrane (DPM) at the edge of the slab but if dampness is not an issue then ignore the absence of a DPM.

The raw threshold over the exposed bricks can be tanked over using SBR. After a couple of coats of SBR (one to dry, and one to tacky) then lay a patch of sand and cement screed on the tacky SBR, and level off with the main floor screed.

FWIW: you've set your door frame what looks like too far forward. Frames should be set back from the face of the elevation(wall) by a min. of 75mm for weather protection.

Any new opening, like yours, should have all DPC work finished before fixing the frame cill or threshold. The cill or threshold should sit on a dpc or membrane.

I'm just saying in case you or any DIY'ers following this thread attempt similar.

 

[adam81]

Its probably only set back about 20mm from the leading edge. Looking at every other door/window in the house it's pretty similar. 75mm would be most of the brick and looking at all the neighbours front doors they are around the 20-40mm mark I'd guess.

A mate put the door in a while ago, its only know I've got round to sorting flooring in hallway. But your right looking no DPC is under the frame itself.

Do you imagine this will cause issues?

 

[ree]

No matter, not much you can do now. Chances are that it wont be an issue.
Why not take this thread to the clever door and window installers in that Forum?

Before tanking try and force a little SBR under the frame, and use a semi-dry 3:1 screed mix for the patch.