Damper for central heating zone valve?

[ianmcd]

I can't see an arrow on either

The arrow is on the brass body of the valve on the side

 

[stem]

The motorised valve needs a permanent line to close it so yes some rewiring required, it's not like for like with the wiring

Some MOMO's have a separate 'open' and 'close' wire, but the wiring for the spring return and MOMO below is the same.

Spot the difference

Honeywell spring return 2-port motorised valve. [Drayton & Danfoss valves are the same]

Sunvic MOMO

It's not difficult to work out how a MOMO can be manufactured to use the same wires as a spring return valve. The addition of a relay inside, operated by the switched live from the thermostat would provide a 'motor on' and 'motor off' output.

 

[ericmark]

Yes any proper electrician could fit the valve you have shown @stem but I was looking for easy way out for DIY guy. If the BG guy was a proper electrician or plumber I am sure he could find a cure, but his remote is to repair, and fitting different parts or wiring may be a cure but it is not a repair.

So if removing the head from valve (and opening the valve) stops the banging, then it is showing the problem is in the valve.

The question is, if a system is poorly designed, is it down to BG to correct? I seem to remember by brother-in-law trying to set up a contract for his father and it became a nightmare as they wanted so many things doing before they would start the contract, father-in-law died and house was sold before sorted, then problem getting money back.

My point being system should have been A1 before they took it over, so they should cover it, as still their error, but even with all the errors found by BG they never noticed no by-pass valve.

If I get local plumber he will tell me, if I do this it will cure problem, it will cost £x to fix it, simple, but if paying a maitainance contract they are only maintaining the system, not improving it.

So assuming not a DIY repair, the big question is how do you get BG to modify the existing? That is not repairing.

 

[stem]

Yes of course I agree with that, and personally I would just secure the pipe.

However the the OP wanted to replace the spring shut valve and said that he was happy for like-for-like replacements which these valves are, but at least two posters made reference to rewiring.

So I was simply trying to explain that for the aforesaid MOMO valve wiring is the same as a spring return valve. Four wires of the same colour that go to the same terminals.

 

[abenn]

Thanks to everyone that's contributed. I don't necessary want a MOMO actuator, but that was suggested as a possible improvement over the present spring-return one. The diagrams posted earlier in this thread certainly appear to show that a MOMO valve can directly replace the one I've got, yet other posts say that extra wiring (a permanent live?) will be required, so that's beyond my DIY competency and would probably invalidate my maintenance contract even if I got it done by a 3rd-party heating engineer.

BG accepted my system as good many years ago, and themselves replaced the boiler and converted it to split-zone heating after they ran out of spares for the original boiler. The maintenance contract includes associated pipework but, even if BG were willing to do anything, I'm not prepared at the moment for the upheaval of lifting floors (carpets, furniture, etc.) to find and secure a noisy pipe. So, given that nobody in this thread seems to think the banging is a problem -- just a nuisance -- then I'll probably wait until I need a new CH system in maybe 10 years time, and get the whole thing overhauled then! It possibly won't even be a gas system by then!

 

[Deleted member 267285]

Genuine water hammer can cause leaks. Also most valves have a permanent live anyway (grey wire usually).

 

[ianmcd]

Yet again !!!!! check the direction of the valve , if fitted the wrong way round it will clunk when closing

 

[stem]

yet other posts say that extra wiring (a permanent live?) will be required

Spring return valves have a permanent live connected (grey wire) so not sure how they work that as being an 'extra' . But as you don't want a MOMO, then I'm done on the subject and hope you manage to find the damper type device you're looking for.

 

[abenn]

Yet again !!!!! check the direction of the valve , if fitted the wrong way round it will clunk when closing

I've checked, and can find no direction arrow (or any other indication) on the two zone valves in my system.

Anyway, my initial question has been answered I think, which is that there's no such thing as a damper for the spring-close type of actuator. I know my options now, so I'll leave it at that. Thank you to all you contributed.