Dead Boiler :(

[sadlybrokeboy]

Hi,

I've been lurking on here for a little while and now my boilers finally given up the ghost i thought I'd take my turn at asking a question.....

Our 19 year our Stelrad/Ideal Classic NF40 has finally given uo the ghost and I feel that now is the time to bite the bullet and get a new boiler....

We live in a 4 bed semi with 11 rads, a bath and shower-room and a downstairs closet toilet.

Now we've decided that we want to keep the existing set-up - hot water/header tank etc. as we like the thought of being able to at least retain the ability to get hot water (we have two young children!)..I know that combi boilers will probably give us more savings but that flexibility is more important to us

So anyway, don't know where to start with what model boilers I should be looking at? I want something that's good quality and economical too

And also any suggestions for what we should be doing to make the set up more efficient?

We have TRV's on all the upstairs rads, but what else can we do?

Thus far I'm thinking that a new boiler will include:

Boiler
Power Flush
Magnetic Filter

I'd be really grateful for any suggestions of ways to make things runs more efficiently and make the expense of a new boiler even more worthwhile.

Many thanks,

Matt

 

[dcawkwell]

I would install system boiler and unvented cylinder to replace what must
be an old hot water tank.
This will therefore remove all the old header tanks from the loft.

My preference would be an Atag with acv unvented (tank in a tank) cylinder.
The atag comes with weather compensation for fuel saving.

There is the possibility if you would like of keeping
the old hot tank as a backup that can be switched on via a valve
but install a combi boiler.

 

[Armo74]

With the new boiler being installed modifications will have to be made anyway to bring the system upto spec with current regs. These being that all rads except the one in the room with the room stat will have trvs on, condensing boiler, fully pumped heating and hot water (if not already),cylinder stat, motorized valves, boiler interlock, pipe lagging etc etc.

 

[mickyg]

whats wrong with your current boiler, have you had the fault diagnosed? there's probably another 10yrs in it yet. These things are bomb proof. Its only got a gas valve and a thermostat, both easily replaced.

 

[Iddy]

If you do consider going unvented you'll need to make sure your mains flow and pressure is okay. If not, keep it vented.

 

[sadlybrokeboy]

whats wrong with your current boiler, have you had the fault diagnosed? there's probably another 10yrs in it yet. These things are bomb proof. Its only got a gas valve and a thermostat, both easily replaced.

Hi,

This is one of a few things to go wrong over the years, we've had the water pump go twice, the PCB on the boiler go and now the timer/control panel is on it's way out and more importantly the fan had died and the combined cost of both being replaced is looking like circa £500 + VAT

I hadn't even considered going vented/unvented - was just thinking of replacing "like with like".....a bit naive of me by the sounds of it.....what's the difference? Any pros and cons?

Many thanks for the replies, it's very much appreciated!!

Ta,

Matt

 

[Agile]

that sounds like like an expensive repair!

How much did you pay someone to diagnose and tell you that?

Tony

 

[sadlybrokeboy]

that sounds like like an expensive repair!

How much did you pay someone to diagnose and tell you that?

Tony

The timer switch I've diagnosed - can't switch it on using the 'over-ride' button 70% of the time....

The Fan - the plumber came out to do a 'temporary fix' during the recent *really* cold snap - a) to diagnose it and b) to hopefully get us going again - he wasn't going to charge us for the call out and just charge us to fit the replacement fan unit (both the fan and motor to fan were on their way)....which he expected to cost £120'ish + labour (£75) + VAT.....when he went to his supplier - it seems that the price has gone up somewhat and we're now looking at £230 for the fan + labour etc.....

So I've agreed to go away and think about whether I want to spend £££ on this for something else to go wrong or bite the bullet - which is where we are now.....

 

[Agile]

so you have budgeted £270 for the programmer?

And your plumber has spent time on your boiler unpaid!

Why do you think you need a mag filter if it has been power flushed?

Tony

 

[sadlybrokeboy]

so you have budgeted £270 for the programmer?

And your plumber has spent time on your boiler unpaid!

Why do you think you need a mag filter if it has been power flushed?

Tony

Tony,

Evidently my sums are little out (I thought I'd allowed £150-£200 all in) - I've not looked into in too much depth to be honest and just made a ball park guestimate...

The plumber has yes been very helpful - but I will be making sure that I see him straight when we sort this out - he's gone above and beyond!

I just assumed that you'd want a mag filter after a flush to keep any crud from being re-introduced 'tis all.....

Cheers!

Matt