Deanta Ely Oak veneered internal door thickness

[Secret_Sipper]

After some advice please.

I've recently bought internal doors to fit new. Was steered away from a few that had minimal lippings and was recommended Déanta as they have 18mm each side. Magic as I've recently had a doorway moved in the bathroom and the width would have been touch and go with the smaller lips.

Anyway, I've fitted one with no hiccups but this door was slightly catching the door jam. So rather than repaint the frame, I've tried to relieve the door lipping and front. I've attached a photo what I'm left with.

Is there any way of recovering this? Oak filler maybe?

I've seen some techniques that uses a scalpel to recreate the grain which makes sense.

Not in the best of moods at the moment as you can probably imagine

Thanks for any help or advice

 

[Deleted member 174758]

Face veneers on veneered doors are generally very thin, sub-1mm. Not surprising as the manufacturer permitted adjustments are to the lippings alone (for width and height). You don't normally need to make any other adjustments - the new door should ideally be the same thickness or thinner than the original for frames and casings with a rebate (a too deep rebate can be packed out with timber strips or even veneers). On doors hung in linings with stop laths, those laths can be prised off, sanded down and refixed in the correct (new) positions. Other adjustments, such as warped casings/linings, if at all possible should be dealt with by adjusting the legs, or sometimes by pulling one of the hinges out a bit (because misalignments at the lock side are far more noticeable than any at the hinge side).

In extremis the rebates in a door frame or rebated casing can be adjusted by the judicious application of a bull nose rebate plane (because there is no power tool on earth which can do this job), but the limit is generally a couple of millimetres and this is an extremely awkward job to do, so is really a last resort.

As to oak wood filler, it's bit like tartan paint - it probably won't match the colour of your door it won't have any grain and it will need to be so thin that it may well break up and fall off, so not a great idea. If the door is over about £200 you might find a French polisher or cabinet maker who can undertake a veneer patch repair then blend in the repair or a or a "plastic surgeon" who can do a faux paint repair job, which.then just leaves you to adjust the rebate.

TBH, swinging the door then unscrewing the keep leg and bending the leg to the right place to match the door before refixing it would be the best way to proceed, regardless of what it does to the paint work

I reckon if you ever replace doors in the future you'll probably hang them before painting or tiling. They can always be removed and rehung later on, especially if you pay a little more and use drop-on hinges

 

[Secret_Sipper]

Thank you for your honest answer.

Kinda had a feeling It would be a non starter.

I say luckily but it's not really, we have an under stairs storage area which needs a door being cut at the top and bottom. (or just the top)

What my wife has suggested (which is a good idea) is planing/cutting the hinges out, switching the damage to the inside, redo the hinges and pack out the door recess and frame 6mm on the handle side.
It's not ideal but the door isn't a standard size anyway and if we change them in the future I'll just removing the packing pieces.

It's that or it's a new door.

On a separate note, I'm using osmo satin oil on the doors, due to the issue above ( I though I had more material) no room to rub them down and redo them or do you not re oil for maintenance?!

Thank you