I've come to realise "to deburr or not" is a rare occasion we DIYers should ignore the advice of the tradesmen. They nearly all say they never deburr and that its never caused a problem. Its another thing to take up time on a job but most of all it has to be a factor that they won't be on the hook for what happens with the pipe in 10 years time. The DIYer though, might be thinking to live in the house for another 30 years.
Apparently "erosion-corrosion" isn't a myth but it just takes a while to happen, though said to be possibly just a year or few here https://www.wsscwater.com/copper-pipe-white-paper Flow rate is unsurprisingly a factor so a burr on a 15mm pipe is more likely to cause a problem and I'm finding avoiding burrs on 15mm is harder than on larger pipes. Hot water more likely to be an issue than cold. https://www.npl.co.uk/getattachment...nce-of-corrosion-in-plumbing-systems-GPG8.pdf
Of course it might never happen, says rarely found in domestic setting in that PDF, though i'd expect it happens more often than reported as who is asking for reports? Other things might mean the system needs to be changed before corrosion occurs anyway, but why not follow best practice if possible when we're not on a clock like tradesman are.
I was an apprentice plumber before pipe slices were invented and we all used these
The pointy end was to deburr, which only needed a few turns in the end because these cutters, if used without excessive twisting on the knob, don't round the pipe and hardly leave any burr. Now we have these pipe slices and there is no way that point would deburr what the pipe slice leaves.
They round off the pipe so much thats it practically impossible to deburr fully without losing a few mm from the pipe length and creating a razor sharp end to the pipe. You're not just trying to take off a burr but removing the bent inwards bit of pipe. I got one of these to try - Pipe Prep, supposed to push out the Burr rather than cut it off.
It doesn't work even on pipe cut carefully with the old style cutter but no way would it push out the rounded pipe from using a pipe slice
I've got a lot of plumbing to do on the house and I'm a long term Milwaukee fanboy, so when i read these hardly leave a burr i stumped up for one
Its pretty good on 22mm pipe, doesn't round much more than the old cutters, but it applies too much pressure on 15mm pipe and rounds almost as much as the pipe slices. I'll sell it when I've finished doing the 22 and 28mm pipes. I imagine the new version which also does stainless steel pipes will be applying more pressure so will be worse for copper. For 15mm pipes I'll stick to the old fashioned pipe cutter.
I already have a Noga pencil type reamer and have found that to be better than the cone type often sold for the job which chamfers as much as deburring. The Noga's cutter is parallel to the pipe so its just cutting off the burr.
But I wouldn't be surprised to find this type with the shallow angle is good as well, if not better
Anyway, I thought i'd share my conclusions on this for what its worth (procrastinating over doing something else) but i know the professionals will be rolling their eyes over this
Apparently "erosion-corrosion" isn't a myth but it just takes a while to happen, though said to be possibly just a year or few here https://www.wsscwater.com/copper-pipe-white-paper Flow rate is unsurprisingly a factor so a burr on a 15mm pipe is more likely to cause a problem and I'm finding avoiding burrs on 15mm is harder than on larger pipes. Hot water more likely to be an issue than cold. https://www.npl.co.uk/getattachment...nce-of-corrosion-in-plumbing-systems-GPG8.pdf
Of course it might never happen, says rarely found in domestic setting in that PDF, though i'd expect it happens more often than reported as who is asking for reports? Other things might mean the system needs to be changed before corrosion occurs anyway, but why not follow best practice if possible when we're not on a clock like tradesman are.
I was an apprentice plumber before pipe slices were invented and we all used these
The pointy end was to deburr, which only needed a few turns in the end because these cutters, if used without excessive twisting on the knob, don't round the pipe and hardly leave any burr. Now we have these pipe slices and there is no way that point would deburr what the pipe slice leaves.
They round off the pipe so much thats it practically impossible to deburr fully without losing a few mm from the pipe length and creating a razor sharp end to the pipe. You're not just trying to take off a burr but removing the bent inwards bit of pipe. I got one of these to try - Pipe Prep, supposed to push out the Burr rather than cut it off.
It doesn't work even on pipe cut carefully with the old style cutter but no way would it push out the rounded pipe from using a pipe slice
I've got a lot of plumbing to do on the house and I'm a long term Milwaukee fanboy, so when i read these hardly leave a burr i stumped up for one
Its pretty good on 22mm pipe, doesn't round much more than the old cutters, but it applies too much pressure on 15mm pipe and rounds almost as much as the pipe slices. I'll sell it when I've finished doing the 22 and 28mm pipes. I imagine the new version which also does stainless steel pipes will be applying more pressure so will be worse for copper. For 15mm pipes I'll stick to the old fashioned pipe cutter.
I already have a Noga pencil type reamer and have found that to be better than the cone type often sold for the job which chamfers as much as deburring. The Noga's cutter is parallel to the pipe so its just cutting off the burr.
But I wouldn't be surprised to find this type with the shallow angle is good as well, if not better
Anyway, I thought i'd share my conclusions on this for what its worth (procrastinating over doing something else) but i know the professionals will be rolling their eyes over this
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