Decking batten pedestals - used internally, price etc

[Draughtsman]

I'm converting a car port which has a concrete base; the base isn't exactly flat, am thinking of putting engineered click over 3/4" structural ply, on batten/decking pedestals. I thought that pedestals would take the faff out of getting it level.

There will be a damp course.

I thought that 3/4" structural ply would be rigid enough with the correct spacings between pedestals? Any pointers as to spacings?

Do I need anything between click and ply?

Where can I find some reasonably priced pedestals? The ones that are extremely low are quite cheap but the price seems to rocket as soon as they get taller.

Generally, is this a good idea?

 

[JobAndKnock]

I thought that 3/4" structural ply would be rigid enough with the correct spacings between pedestals? Any pointers as to spacings?

Depending in the fall, I'd probably do the job with taper-ripped 4 x 2s on 16in centres with cross-blocking (solid strutting) to give added rigidity. AFAIK this will give better support than pedestals. Cheaper, too

 

[Draughtsman]

Depending in the fall, I'd probably do the job with taper-ripped 4 x 2s on 16in centres with cross-blocking (solid strutting) to give added rigidity. AFAIK this will give better support than pedestals. Cheaper, too

Do you mean profile the underside of CLS to fit the floor over it's whole length? That could be quite a learning curve for a diyer.

Or maybe use 3x2 laid flat and packed where I don't have the depth to stand it up, and packed upright where possible?

Are there any good mastics that I could use on top of wood packs to form a seat for the batten. Pack up but leave a void between btm of batten and top of packing, then seat the batten on mastic/pack? Fischer is the absolute biz on masonry but doesn't come cheap. I don't much like some of the gripfix types because they dry out and become brittle. Maybe the right ball park but not quite the right idea?

Does the frame need fixing down? I can't see why it would.

Dain

 

[JobAndKnock]

Do you mean profile the underside of CLS to fit the floor over it's whole length? That could be quite a learning curve for a diyer.

Or maybe use 3x2 laid flat and packed where I don't have the depth to stand it up, and packed upright where possible?

Either/both..... The main "learning curve" is probably understanding what a chalk line does and learning to use a circular saw freehand. Plastic "horseshoe" packers and a laser level are a preferred option for speed (two screws scewed in at an angle are preferable to a single vertical one, too), but in years gone by we used to level stuff like floors with a water level (i.e. a long clear plastic tube containing coloured water). I believe the ancient Egyptians used water levels of a sort to build the pyramids...... You might also want to consider making-up the frame in 2 or 3 sections (as ladder frames) and fixing these together before packing them up. There's always more than one way to skin the proverbial cat

Are there any good mastics that I could use on top of wood packs to form a seat for the batten.

Possibly silicone?

Does the frame need fixing down? I can't see why it would.

Yes, because if you don't fix it the packers will eventually work their way out

 

[bsr]

Are you insulating? This will be required for building regs (and is a good idea).

You could do the following:

1. Level with SLC or grano
2. DPM
   
3. Floor grade insulation (celotex etc)
   
4. Structural floor (your ply) glued onto the insulation
   
5. Final floor covering floating, glue only the tounge together.

Since the floor will be 100% supported you may be able to skip the structural floor if the engineered floor manufacturer supports it.

See here:
https://www.kingspan.com/gb/en-gb/p...ice/why-and-how-to-construct-a-floating-floor