DEfective Diverter Valve?

[Catceefer]

Ian,

Thank you for the detailed guidance. You are right: the wiring has not been touched.

With the cover off the valve, I can see the motor, but there is a nylon collar that blocks the actual valve from view. However, setting the thermostats as you advise does seem to move the valve, although it does seem to stutter at times and sometimes seems not to respond fully or.



Regards,

James

 

[ianblue]

I know its not easy only really by sound and feeling the pipe, but if we could establish that the valve is running fully from one side to the other. We could eliminste it from our enquires then look at other possiblities.
Air locks/blockages?
May need to take that pump out again and check any visible blockages.
Remember if you do drain down you will need to add an inhibitoreg Fernox when all is fixed. Unless you have a primatic system but if you have a feed and expansion tank in the loft an inhibitor should be used.

 

[Catceefer]

Ian,

On reflection, I shall see what the system does in the morning, just in case my fiddling with the valve has done anything. Assuming that it has not, then I shall drain the system, remove the pump and check for any blockages. I shall also have a look at the valve to make sure that it is actual rotating. I shall refill it and add some Fernox and see what happens. I shall let you know.

Thank you again for your help.

Regards,

James.

 

[D_Hailsham]

Pump type. It is a Flomasta 7000233 pump from Screwfix.

Flomasta is a Screwfix trademark. The pump is actually a Circulating Pumps Ltd CP53.

 

[ianblue]

James I didn't mean to put the inhibitor in now.
I meant when all was finally sorted.

Ok if you are going to start in the morning it might be a good time set the balancing valve to the Cylinder. AS Agile has said from cold, reduce the volume through the cylinder to give a differential of 10deg C. This is the correct way to set it. I know if you don't have temperature measuring equipment that will not be easy, so it may be a case of the hand thermometer. If its just as hot coming out as going in then their is too much flow.

 

[Catceefer]

Thank you for the clarification about balancing the flow to the hot water tank. I will dig out a thermometer to check the heat through. I did realise that the inhibitor goes in right at the end, but thank you for checking.

Regards,

James.

 

[Catceefer]

As is only to be expected, the system was just the same this morning.

I have not drained the system yet, but did take the head off from the diverter valve to see whether or not the actual valve was turning.

I do not know how far it should move, but when turning the shaft of the valve, it only moves by about 10- 15 degrees. Beyond this point, it is solid. I had anticipated a greater degree of movement. Is this restricted movement normal or indicative of a fault?

Regards,

James.

 

[ianblue]

James I have worked on these valves many times and I wish I had one here then I could tell you exactly the angle of movement.
From memory about 45% would seem right but I can't say for sure.
If anyone knows or has one it would be easy to check?
Can you feel with your hand that both ports are opening and closing when you move it.
That should prove at least the valve body.

PS When I say feel with your hand I mean the temparature of the pipe.

 

[Catceefer]

Through my own cack-handedness, I think that I am going to have to replace the head and may as well do the lot. When I took the head off, the spring pulled the innards to rest. When trying to replace the head, I used the manual level to align the motor with the valve itself, caused something inside to slip and now all I get is a constant clicking from the gears not meshing correctly.

Also, as a result, the bolier will not fire up properly because the microswitches are not activating.

Regards,

James.

 

[D_Hailsham]

I have not drained the system yet, but did take the head off from the diverter valve to see whether or not the actual valve was turning.

I do not know how far it should move, but when turning the shaft of the valve, it only moves by about 10- 15 degrees.

Honeywell say 15-20°, so your valve is OK. They also say that the valve should be locked in the MAN position when removing and replacing the actuator.

 

[Catceefer]

They also say that the valve should be locked in the MAN position when removing and replacing the actuator.

The trouble was that the lever would not work and had not affect upon anything.

Anyway, I have now drained the system, replaced the valve that I messed up and checked the pump for blockages. All was clear, but now I cannot get the air out of the system, as usual, and the boiler keeps cutting out. It sounds like the pump is cavitating, but I can get no more air out. All of the rads have been bled, no air comes out of the bleed screw on the pump and the "highpoint" valve in the airing cupboard has no air in it. I am at a loss as to how to clear any more air out. I will persevere.

JAmes.

 

[ianblue]

You are having a hard time there James.
Remember not to run the pump when you are bleeding the system.

 

[MANDATE]

Did you use the lever to latch the valve in mid position when re filling, cause that's what it's really provided for
This is required, otherwise the CH port is closed and causes air lock.
Maybe another drain down and re fill required?

 

[Catceefer]

Morning Update.

Some of the air seems to have settled out overnight and the boiler will now run without the overheat shut-off operating. I seem to be more or less back to where I started:

With hot water and heating on, some upstairs radiators warm up, but downstairs is cold. With the water off and the main bedroom radiator off, downstairs starts to heat up and remains so when the water is turned back on.

There are two drain valves for the system and I only used one. The radiators that do not work properly would have been left largely full of water due to the way the system is split.

Tonight, I plan to turn off the system, leave the water in the loft on and open the drain valve on the cold radiators. I hope that this may chase out any blockage or persistant air locks.

Failing that, I will have to get thick coats and a quilt for us all to use downstairs and sort it out in the spring!

Mandate: yes, I did latch the valve onto manual, but you are probably right about the need to drain again. I had wondered about draining it whilst it is still filling. I am not sure whether this will help or not.

If I do end up draining it again, I shall make sure that the pump is off whilst I am bleeding it.



Regards,

James.

 

[ianblue]

Any joy?

Ian