Demolishing Partition wall

[Ex-repairman]

Hi Guys
I'm just about to start a project in our bedroom, in which I'm trying to create more usable storage space. The obvious answer is to demolish/modify a stud partition wall, the other side of which is the stair well with a huge open space right up to the ceiling.
My only concern is that this wall may be providing any support for the roof joists.
My investigations (and common sense) are telling me it isn't but I want to be sure!!
It's construction is of the typical stud and plaster, I've removed some plaster and the centres are 400mm. It does run at 90 degrees to the roof rafters but they are of trussed construction which I understand requires no further support other than the outer house walls.
Any advice anyone can offer would be much appreciated.
Also, if I were to manufacture cupboards across this void supported on horizontal bridging timber (across the two stud walls either side of the stairwell), what size timber would be advisable? I'm currently working along the lines of 3" x 2". Would this be sufficient or maybe overkill?

I hope the above makes sense, but many thanks anyway for any help you are able to give.

Nick

 

[noseall]

everything you've said so far makes sense.

3"x2" timber sounds ok for vertical framing, though, if you are creating any floor section, then 5"x2" should be ok over a short span.

don't forget, you will need 2m headroom from the peak of the stair tread.

 

[Ex-repairman]

Many thanks for the prompt advice. I won't be creating any floor space, the intention at the moment is to modify standard wardrobe carcasses to fit above the stairwell (but obviously facing into the bedroom) but, as you say, bearing in mind the 2m rule. This should (fingers crossed!!) result in the appearance of full length wardrobes built in along the wall, but when the doors are opened they will reveal cupboards somewhat shorter (but very useable still) inside. As I move along the wall they will obviously become shorter and shorter.
Therefore the horizontal bridge timber that I described above will be supporting the weight of the wardrobe and contents. Would you still advise 5" x 2"? Obviously this would limit the useable height of the interior cupboard even more. Do you think the existing vertical 3" x 2" used for the partition will, when cut down, be sufficient to support the proposed load?

Thanks again.

Nick

 

[noseall]

if the carcassing hasn't got to carry regular floor loads then, yes, 3"x2" should eat it.

 

[big-all]

ok my suggestion for maximum depth

i am assuming an angle of 38% ish and your plasterboarding the back and the slopping underneath visible from the stairs

my suggestion is make an oblong vertical frame the height and width off the stairs with the bottom edge stops 2" short off your minimum height required on the stairs

the underneath edge of the back frame would be your finnished floor height in your cupboard
you secure a piece off 18mm mdf [cupboard floor] 1" in from the back of the verticle frame approximatly 7 inches in you have your first support under the floor

you can then attach your plasterboard underneath slopping at your stair angle on the one inch left on your verticle frame and the first support thats placed the correct distance away to give you the angle

you can then either use thicker supports as you work forward or step the floor progressivly down or a combination of both

the advantages are you loose no more than about an inch of height at the back and you have full strength throut the depth

how deep are you planning making the cupboard!!!!

 

[Ex-repairman]

Big-All

Thanks for your suggestion, but unfortunately I'm slightly lost. I can't picture what you're suggesting as I'm not sure what you mean by how deep am I going. The structure will go across the whole width of the stairs (approx 1 metre) although the cupboard itself will penetrate about half of that. The intention is that at a later stage I will break in from the bedroom on the other side of the stairwell and do the same, which will obviously use up the other half of the current void.

I'm also slightly confused to where the 1", 2" and 7" dimensions are that you refer to and why I need to use thicker materials as I work along? Work along which way?

My apologies if I'm being a bit basic here but thanks again.

Nick

 

[big-all]

in my plan i was putting a flat or stepped floor in your cupboard

imagine a triangle the bottom is the roof of the stars as one part the front of the wardrobe is another and the[level] base off the cupboard is the third so you make the point as thin as possible you then place your first peice of 3by2"at the point where it will keep the floor and ceiling at the correct angle and of course the next one has a larger gap to fill unless you step the floor down thats why i was asking about depth [front to back

if it was only about 40" you would have one step down
or a level floor with a compartment underneath


clear as mud eeehhh

 

[Ex-repairman]

Big All

Finally got you!! I think what you are suggesting is pretty much what I had in mind actually. As long as you are in agreement that by pulling down the stud partition I won't be weakening my roof and that 3" x 2" should be strong enough to support it all I should be laughing , and hopefully not end up in the DIY disaster section !!!

Have just ordered the units I'm planning on butchering to fit, and although they would have been available for delivery on 12 dec, I've delayed them until after xmas so any photos may be some time off!!

Nick

 

[big-all]

Big All

3" x 2" should be strong enough to support it all I should be laughing , and hopefully not end up in the DIY disaster section !!!

Nick

3 by 2" is more than enough providing there isnt any joists joining on top of the wall you want to remove!!!
if your unsure affix the upright frame in position before you remove the old one

any way good luck

 

[Ex-repairman]

Big All

3 by 2" is more than enough providing there isnt any joists joining on top of the wall you want to remove!!!
if your unsure affix the upright frame in position before you remove the old one

That takes me back to the original question in a round about way:

With a trussed roof, is this wall providing any support for the rafters in the loft?

Cheers

Nick

 

[noseall]

With a trussed roof, is this wall providing any support for the rafters in the loft?

Cheers

Nick

it is extremely unlikely.

 

[big-all]

the only exception i can think off is the one they cut for the loft hatch needs to be anchored but this could be round the hatch frame tying both halves together

 

[Ex-repairman]

The loft hatch sits between rafters, so no cutting having taken place. I've been up in the loft this evening and all the partition walls appear to have been put in AFTER the ceilings were. Tends to suggest that they definitely aren't load bearing.

The only other thing to throw in to the equation is, like most homes, we've an awful lot of 'stuff' stored in the roof. Perhaps this is where trussed roofs DO benefit from stud partitions?

The saga continues, but much obliged for the advice.

Nick