Dimmer switch
- Thread starter masona
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How many and what is the whattage?
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Theory you should not dim quartz lamps, practice every one does it would seem. So you have to accept they may have a shorter life if you dim them.
Second is G9 bulb does not have to be 12 volt but often they are. So something will reduce the voltage from low voltage (230) to extra low voltage (12) and this device will need to be compatible with the dimmer.
The whole idea of using a pulse width modulated or switch mode device to power quartz lamps (often called an electronic transformer) is to ensure an exact output voltage even if the input voltage varies this means the bulbs last longer. To defeat this feature the dimming switch needs to talk to the dropper device. This is often done by cutting the leading or trailing edge of the wave form with the dimmer which the dropper device reads as an instruction to reduce output.
The only real way to be sure they will work together is to use same make of dimmer, voltage dropper and bulb. Even the coil of wire in the bulb can cause a miss match often heard as buzzing sound from dropper or dimmer switch. Often just matching leading or trailing is enough, but not always. Clearly a problem if an expensive dimmer is used.
With a simple transformer the back EMF can damage the dimming switch so again careful selection of a dimmer designed to work with a simple transformer.
310 watt is a lot of power no wonder you want to dim them. My living room has 30 watt. You can get dimmers to take that load, but I would be considering spiting up the lights so not all on the same switch and once you do that maybe you will not need dimmer.
Second is G9 bulb does not have to be 12 volt but often they are. So something will reduce the voltage from low voltage (230) to extra low voltage (12) and this device will need to be compatible with the dimmer.
The whole idea of using a pulse width modulated or switch mode device to power quartz lamps (often called an electronic transformer) is to ensure an exact output voltage even if the input voltage varies this means the bulbs last longer. To defeat this feature the dimming switch needs to talk to the dropper device. This is often done by cutting the leading or trailing edge of the wave form with the dimmer which the dropper device reads as an instruction to reduce output.
The only real way to be sure they will work together is to use same make of dimmer, voltage dropper and bulb. Even the coil of wire in the bulb can cause a miss match often heard as buzzing sound from dropper or dimmer switch. Often just matching leading or trailing is enough, but not always. Clearly a problem if an expensive dimmer is used.
With a simple transformer the back EMF can damage the dimming switch so again careful selection of a dimmer designed to work with a simple transformer.
310 watt is a lot of power no wonder you want to dim them. My living room has 30 watt. You can get dimmers to take that load, but I would be considering spiting up the lights so not all on the same switch and once you do that maybe you will not need dimmer.
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